20/10: Woke up 3.30am, waiting for Deb’s alarm to go off at 4am. It was a warm early morning. The mozzies were particularly bad, the little evils were biting me on my bare bum as I sat on the toilet. Neil put up with us 4 making noise packing up, he got up 5.30am as Ambles & I were ready to leave early at 5.45am, ahead of Deb & Mel. Ambles had already off loaded his fishing rod – that didn’t last long!☺️ The other hiker was still in his tent as we set off. If only I had known I would have gone for a swim yesterday, maybe, maybe not I was exhausted. Only 400 metres down from the campsite we cross the 4WD track that Tim & Jules must have visited us from & onto Boat Habour Beach Bay. Beautiful swimming hole sheltered from the ocean’s rough surf. Darn! On the other side there were two camp grounds, each with a fireplace. Ambles pouted at them. He has been missing his camp fires. I turned & said to Ambles as we walked along this beach, “How lucky are we??!”
We had 10.6kms to Parry’s Campgrounds, another 9 odd kms to William Bay Road after. The first 10.6kms took us 3 & a half hours. It was more of yesterday’s end walk, up & down sand dunes, along narrow, sometimes overgrown tracks. Soft sand, semi soft sand. I was tired, we both were from yesterday. Even as we started I could feel the day warming up. The sun was bright, warm & in my face the whole time. There was flies, flies, flies! After 2 hours, I got tired of swatting them away from my face, stopped & put my head net on. The first time I have used it on this walk. After that, the flies didn’t bother me. That sharp pain came back in my shoulders, especially if I turned to see where Ambles was. It was a slow process. More kangaroo poop everywhere but didn’t see any kangaroos. Only bird life, there was lots of birds flitting from bush to bush, chattering away to each other. Ambles took the lead halfway & it was he that stumbled across a big bad boy black snake, laying in the track that didn’t want to move. It was only 8am as well! Eventually it slithered off into the bush allowing him through. We were 3kms out & spotted someone in the distance on top of a hill. It was Tim that had walked in to meet us! This was the Mt Hillier trig point with 360 degrees views all around. From there we had 2.7kms walking in with Tim whom had an idea to use his drone & video us walking along the sandy ridge from above. The footage is going to look amazing once complete! It sure was getting hot at almost 25 degrees. I was relieved to walk into the Campgrounds where it was cool & shady under the trees.
We had a much needed break at Tim & Jules Campsite. Jules had scones jam & cream ready for us. I lost count how many I had! They were delicious! And cold coke went down a treat as Ambles had a coffee then pinched my coke the cheeky bugger! Deb & Mel came through & sat out in the front entrance to the Campgrounds under the warm sun at a picnic table to eat their trail mix & bars. We were spoilt & I felt bad being a greedy gutso. I also took a few items out of my backpack before leaving for the second stretch. It was hot after 10am & we had to make tracks.
A 7km walk along Mazzoletti Beach. Aimed with more food from Jules, chocy twirl bars & a fresh apple for extra energy!😁It was great, far easier than the first stretch. Most of the sand was firm or slightly soft. Was easy, cool winds blew off the ocean. Flies disappeared. My backpack was lighter than normal, felt awesome. Wish it was always this light! I was use to my bell, & couldn’t hear it ringing. Darn! The bell fell off in the grass when I emptied some of my stuff.😕There was a hive of activity along the beach in parts. Many 4WD’s, families, swimming, camping, dogs running through the water. Perfect time of year to walk this stretch. Again there is an alternative route inland if the beach is at high tide. Parry’s Inlet has a full wide sandbar across it so no problems with getting through.
We could see two tiny figures in the distance which had to be Deb & Mel. We were gaining on them & caught up just before Greens Pool. Mel was in pain today & really struggling. They have about 3 more kms to make, probably just under that. Ambles offered to share his banana that Jules gave him. They both accepted a piece each & enjoyed it by the looks on their faces. It’s funny how you love the foods you don’t get on the track. Fresh fruit is one of those luxuries. The alternative route is a short cut to William Bay Road but we settled on the proper Bibbulmun track route, continuing onto Greens Pool, across, up the stairs & onto William Bay Road there. My idea was to cool off with a quick dip on the far side of Greens Pool away from everyone else. Ambles was not impressed, hot from the walk, he turned into a grumpy old man, told me off for wanting to make this a holiday & walked off to the meeting point to be picked up by Tim. We thought this stretch would take 3 hours but only took under 2 hours so we were ahead of schedule. The water was worth it! Highly refreshing, sheltered again by the huge boulders in the water making it a bay, weakening the waves coming in. Far better than the busy packed shallow Greens Pool further along. After my quick swim, I set off again with my sarong wrapped around me, throngs on my feet, carrying my hiking poles in one hand, boots in the other.
Tim & Jules came down to meet me bypassing Ambles whom they must have just missed. So they drove back to the arranged pick up point where Ambles had gone. I continued on my own from the carpark otherwise I would miss a small section & can’t have that! It didn’t seem right that the hikers have to walk 300 odd metres along William Bay Road. It was pretty busy with traffic. Loads of people were flocking to Greens Pool for a swim on this warm spring day. I had to double check my guide book. Soon enough I was sitting in Tim’s car speeding back to Parry’s Campground where our tent was waiting for us, already set up by Tim & Ambles before we left. Had another dip at Parry’s beach before lunch but that beach is full of crashing waves & seaweed. Wasn’t as good. Party Pies for lunch & hot shower after to freshen up. Quite a few campers here, lovely Campgrounds. Feeling dog tired. Have had two really early morning wake ups & lack of sleep & physically demanding days are catching up to me. Glad to be going in to Denmark tomorrow & have a rest day. We get dropped off back on William Bay Road with a kilometre walk in to the campsite we were meant to stay at, then another 20kms to Denmark rivermouth.
Spent some time laying in the tent. Felt so good to be laying horizontal, alleviating my feet as the bottoms of them ache so much. My shoulders are still killing me. Tim & Jules have been amazing, offering so much to us, their food, drinks, bringing us back here to share a night with them, their awesome company. It has been so lovely, a highlight to this trip! And Tim wants to be mentioned at having completed this section of the Bibbulmun track (via foot & car!).😄
Tim & Jules hosted us with dinner they prepared which included the steaks Ambles had asked for! Followed up by fruit yummy salad & toasting marshmallows by the campfire Tim got going. Washed down with vino.😊What a wonderful night! Dehydrated food we didn’t have to cook up. A warm campfire we had been missing. Laughs & stories until way past hiker bedtime. We appreciate so much all our trail angels have done for us. Giving up their time to assist us, feed us, company us, support us, help out with emergencies due to equipment malfunction .☺️
Lots of campers are still up, laughing, talking, enjoying their fires, enjoying each other’s company. It’s after 8pm when we crawl into bed. They don’t have to get up before sunrise, pack up a tent, heave on a heavy backpack & walk 22kms tomorrow. Their kind of holidays I miss. Still, when I’m on the track tomorrow, I will be loving the views, the landscapes, the flowers, the everything. Tomorrow is another day full of new experiences, of more memories being created & I feel so lucky to be able to experience & do this! Keep it together body – you got this!
Snake sightings: Ambles 4, Rose 4.5
About the author AmblingRose
We are keen hikers based in Perth, Western Australia. We have hiked 7 New Zealand multi-day walk trails, the 800km Camino Frances in Spain, the Cape to Cape in WA, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, Malaysia. We have hiked sections of the 1003 km Bibbulmun Track in WA with plans to complete an end to end this year in Spring, 2019.
Honeymoon Pool to Balingup
Chichester Range Camel Trail