Day Thirteen: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

Distance: 22.4km, Steps: 32,629, Time total: 7.5hrs

The Roosters crowing down below outside our window, woke me up at 5.30am. Got up out of bed at 6am, packed & were out the door at 7am. The church bells DONG DONGed us along the dark streets as we left. We had difficulty finding the yellow arrows pointing us the way out of town. Usually we just follow everyone else, but we were one of the first to leave. Once over the bridge, I stopped to take a photo. Then continued along the Camino that took a right turn off the road. Mr D had missed the arrow & continued along the road. So we momentarily lost each other in the dark as I kept walking thinking he was somewhere ahead, he had gone back looking for me. So then we “Whatsapped” messaged  each other & he finally caught up to me. Needless to say Mr D kept me in front of him for the rest of the day!

The early morning was FREEZING yet again as my fingers went painfully cold & numb. One guy in shorts & bare hands comfortably strolled past me saying it was 0 degrees. I’m thinking he must come from the South Pole! The sides of the path had brown weeds along it & I could imagine in Spring it would be full of beautiful flowers instead. Mr D commented on these brown weeds, they grow quite tall & have a real thick trunk their heads look like lethal little mouths; “These weeds are vicious! They look like they are going to reach out & grab you!”

We arrived in Granon, a real lovely warm welcoming town. They have put up signs saying “Buen Camino Peregrino” ( good walk Pilgrims ). We stopped in for breakfast at the little cafe there & it was a real treat. We had a lovely breakfast served by a kind, warm lady that did as a bonus, speak English. Such a change from all the sour faced women I’ve ordered from in previous cafes. There was beautiful old French music playing & a guitar standing next to the food stand. Mr D had an impromptu moment & picked up the guitar & had a bit of a play. Last night he had found a man in our room with a guitar & had a play then. If there is one thing Mr D misses, it’s his musical toys. One man picked up & smelt a peach & Mr D’s eyes widen in shock – in Spain you are not allowed to touch the fruit. The shop attendant picks them for you. DO NOT TOUCH the fruit! But this lovely cafe worker did not seemed concerned.

Well we left that town to go through similar open pasture lands like yesterday. We had to be careful of the stones, they were like ankle rollers. Through the next town where old Spanish ladies watched us from their balconies. We have yet to encounter the ‘laughing old ladies sitting on the benches’ as seen on Camino documentaries.

We ended up walking beside the busy highway which wasn’t as fun. The day had warmed up quite considerably & it was hot walking with no shade cover. Mr D’s umbrella went up again & it was heads down & get this over with! The left side of my exposed arm & leg are tanning darker than my right side as we are always walking with the sun on our left all morning. Mr D’s skin is getting darker brown & soon be the colour of the Chico Babies lollies. My leg rashes are all but gone now after applying anti inflammatory cream. Sock rash I think it is as I always get it when hiking where my socks sit. Mr D likes to say I get it because ‘I’m allergic to hiking’. Haha funny boy.

So halfway along this fun part we came to Villamayor a town? Not sure, wasn’t much there, a strip of buildings on each side of the highway. But there was a cafe called Casa Leon & it was lunchtime. So in we went to order lunch & a cold glass of coke each – you really get a carving for coke when walking, it’s the best thing! Besides a chunky beef meat pie with tomato sauce I was drooling thinking about. No meat pies here! We sat in the beautiful sunroom, it was an upmarket cafe & the staff were watching us Pilgrims like a hawk. Mr D decided to remove his boots & change socks. So he left his feet to air & a young lady staff worker came out & talking in Spanish no less told him to put his boots back on. I laughed my head off & we left soon after, feeling watched all the time.

Back to the joyful walking under the blistering hot sun with trucks roaring pass constantly. My only distraction was watching two yellow butterflies dance together fluttering along the flowers.

We arrived in Belorado keen to get a private room for a change. Mr D dropped in on a nice looking Albergue with separate double bedrooms besides the normal bunk rooms as well. They also had a pool & Mr D was keen on the idea of going for a swim. But those rooms were all booked so we had to continue into town. Mr D by this time is always fed up with walking & just wants to chuck his bag down & have a beer – with his boots off.

We found, or should I say, I saw & picked out a real nice Pension called Waslala. Mr D entered this interesting place into a small hallway & set of stairs calling out ‘Hola!’ Sometimes you think maybe you are walking into someone’s private home which is what it seemed like. It is a sweet 3 storey home run by a nice couple, the man speaks English well & quite friendly. We picked a nice private room & even got our clothes washing done for us! Sometimes you know when it’s a good place. Of course it cost more but worth it – breakfast will be cooked for us so we don’t have to go looking for a cafe in the morning. Our room even has an old t.v in the cupboard! When I settled in, I noticed a sudden red blotchy itchy rash up near my knee. What the hell?! I had an allergic reaction to something. Lucky Mr D had all his antihistamine kit on hand to tackle it quickly. I feel my body is punishing me for all this walking!

We had a look around, bit of sightseeing. Belorado is sure a cute little town! There’s a lane that has famous people’s hand & shoe prints encased into the pavement. And as in every town on top of churches & poles there are big stork nests. I only have seen one stork near its nest. Guess they flew south for the winter & will return to their nests later on! Mr D sat at a bar cafe to enjoy some drinkies while I walked around. He was feeling lonely & said if I saw anyone we know to send them his way! After, we enjoyed a nice cheap peregrino 3 course meal for 10€ each. Only the wine came out in a tiny glass bottle Mr D wasn’t impressed about, we had to suffer a small amount of red vino each. And in the end, we didn’t see anyone we knew today – there didn’t seem to be many Pilgrims about.


About the author AmblingRose

We are keen hikers based in Perth, Western Australia. We have hiked 7 New Zealand multi-day walk trails, the 800km Camino Frances in Spain, the Cape to Cape in WA, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, Malaysia. We have hiked sections of the 1003 km Bibbulmun Track in WA with plans to complete an end to end this year in Spring, 2019.

All posts by AmblingRose →

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