11/9: It was a warm & humid night, I even threw off my bed socks & beanie. We were up at 5am in preparation of a long 19.5kms to Murray, battling some hills on the way. We pack up quicker now & were off by 6.30am. Wayne was up having a coffee & cursing his $80 tent from Anaconda. It lets in condensation & was all wet on the inside, damp mattress & sleeping bag & he didn’t sleep so he was pissed. “If I had some bloody reception out here I would be ringing them up & saying what the fuck they doing selling shit like this?! Not happy!”

We were off tackling the big hills, I passed some disgusting old pack of those sushi rolls uneaten & discarded by the wayside. I felt sick with the thought of how off they were & kept going. Plugged up two hills & stopped at Ventures seat on a downhill bit to wait for Ambles. Knee was much better but would twinge at the downhill walking. Then we had a massive uphill that we both slowly struggled up, breathing so heavily thinking when was it going to end. Then we had some sweet walking thought this was great. Stopped by a bridge over a stream to munch on vegemite peanuts to give me a power boost. Didn’t realise after stopping there there was a steep uphill to follow! And more uphills that veered away from the roads. We had 1.5kms to go through a dense overgrown goat trail, getting through an obstacle of a very large tree that had recently fallen down blocking the way on a steep embankment. Fun fun.

Was great getting to Murray Shelter 20 odd feet away from Murray river. Had a dip in the cold water, came out, slipped in the mud, fell down, had mud all up my side leg so had to go back in to wash it all off. Wayne came barrelling through as we were eating lunch. Could hear him long before seeing him. In he charged going, “Fuck me mate! That was a bloody challenge you know! All those hills! What the fuck?! You know what Jeremy said to me this morning? He said, ‘Wayne, there is no shame in going back’ Well fuck me! I show him! My backpack is killing me! That’s it, some of this food has gotta go! Too much man!” He pulled out all his Lolly packets again & curry pouches he hadn’t offloaded any of them. Jayn later put seeds of doubt in his mind saying he might need them, careful not to get rid of food too quickly so he kept everything again. He was like “Fuck I’m hot! I’m ripping off my clothes & going for a swim sorry guys!” I warned him the bank was slippery. He charged in to the Murray river for a swim, all gang ho, ended up slipping like me on the muddy banks but caught his toenail on a tree root, almost ripping it off. When he came out it was a rant again about food, his tent, his backpack, his toe, food, tent, toenail…… Wayne talks all the time, when he isn’t smoking a cigarette. He talks to us, then talks to himself but you can’t tell sometimes if he is talking to you or himself. He got lucky with his new boots, brand new & not causing any blisters or foot issues.

Jeremy, Dave & Jayn came in couple of hours later. Everyone except Ambles went in for a swim. Man I really craved a cold can of coke, Ambles was craving a pint of cold Guinness beer. The day had been a funny overcast day. It was humid as it tried to rain the hills making everyone hot & sweaty. I love this sweet little campsite by the river. It does attract the mosquitos in droves but. Birds singing, the sun even came out in the afternoon. Jeremy is a funny man, he doesn’t mingle a lot, but is nice company when around. Ambles likes his sense of humour. Everyone tents, it is only us in the shelter. Ambles was far too tired to start a campfire, even Jeremy offered to get firewood for him but he declined the offer, so we went without & off to bed early. I like how someone rigged up solar party lights in the toilet so at night you sit on the dunny surrounded by fairy lights. And the almost full moon shone brightly again.

The date was the 10/9 when we left Dwellingup after breakfast at the Blue Wren Cafe. Ambles had bacon n eggs on toast which he couldn’t finish his generous serving of bacon. He had a reduced appetite in the last few days. I had two big crossiants with jam n butter. Only 2 kms out we noticed a hiker off the Trail emptying his backpack searching for something. This was Jeremy doing a section hike Dwellingup to Collie. He forgot his matches for cooking. Ambles offered his to borrow but Jeremy said he will just go back into Dwellingup & pick some up. On we went it was a pleasant cool morning with red tailed black cockatoos making a real raucous in the tree tops. We passed through the pretty cool shady pine plantation passing 2 women returning to Dwellingup after doing an overnight at Swamp Oak. One woman said it was her training run for her end to end in October. Michelle from Walking twobytwo was there last night doing track maintenance & shared sausages & cold drinks around. Darn I had missed that! Ambles was floating on half his normal backpack weight but then had to pick up his hidden stash. From there it was all uphill! Straight up, hard to follow where the track went at times.

It was a more easier stroll after those climbs, passing another northbound end to ender called Cliff. He was romping it in easy with his small sized backpack & quick walking. He said we were almost there. Indeed we arrived at Swamp Oak at lunchtime, 20 minutes later. There was Wayne, he is a very colourful character. Wayne is in his mid forties, spends his time drinking too much & decided he would hit the track from Dwellingup to Collie. Never done this hiking before, he went into Anaconda asking what he needed. His old army backpack wasn’t sitting right on him. He carried far too much backpack weight & swearing is his main vocabulary. Every sentence has a couple of curses or more thrown in. What I get when I got there? He goes, “Oh fuck man! That walk was so shit! I didn’t think I would make it here hey?! My backpack is killing me! Damn thing is so fucking heavy! My shoulders are fucked right now! I’m going through my shit & throwing stuff out! My food too much! It’s gotta go! These curry packets weigh a kilo on their own! And don’t know why, but I have 5 packets of lollies! Too much man! It’s gotta go! You want some lollies? I had a kilo of trail mix but got so pissed off with my weight I threw the whole lot out! Fed the Roos my trail mix man! Fuck, wished I didn’t do that! No trail mix now! Shit man!”

Jeremy turned up next & quietly set up his tent. Ambles & I wondered down to the river which was a 10 odd minute journey. I had just got in to the freezing cold water in my bikini top & underwear when a whole group of kayakers came through. We watched as one kayak with 2 girls capsized on the small rapids. They had to bring their kayak into the bank we were standing on, Ambles helping them to get back in & head off again. Once they were all gone, in I went again, the cold numbing my feet & ankles. Ambles couldn’t handle it only going in to his ankles.

Once we got back, Dave & Jayn were there. Jayn is very quiet keeps to herself hardly speaks to us. Wayne did all the talking. Said he lived on an island in Welly Dam for a year once. Got all sorts of issues going on & a lot of crazy stories I’m sure. Jeremy stayed in his tent only joining us for dinner. Ambles had a fire going but by 6.45pm, everyone including Ambles went to bed. It was too early for me as I stayed by the campfire until 7.30pm enjoying an almost full moon night. What really was a delight today was receiving a gift from Michelle from Walkingtwobytwo. Two pairs of hot hands for Ambles & me for those cold mornings – thanks Michelle!!!😁😁😁

We had a lovely rest day, time to recharge our batteries, sort out our gear. Couldn’t sleep well at all, not use to a normal bed! Everything aches more when you stop hiking. We headed off for breakfast at the Blue Wren Cafe with a ‘hiker hobble’ walk. While sitting by the glorious little wood fireplace, Mel & Deb came in for breakfast before heading back out on the track. Ambles went back for takeaway coffee after we had returned to our room & saw Veronique there. She was waiting for the Visitors Centre to open. One of the workers was going to find a blanket for her as she didn’t pack for cold nights. She thought it was going to be warm so she had been cold every night in her tired old sleeping bag. Daisyfish gave her tent fly for Veronique to borrow to help retain some warmth. And Veronique now had to leave it for Daisyfish to collect. Seems Veronique relies on the kind giving nature of everyone else to supply her with hot water & such while she carries minimal gear. She did say because of her age she can’t carry a heavy pack so to do the Bibbulmun, she had to keep her weight right down.

We aired out our stuff, the Pub washed & dried our clothes & sleeping liners for only $20 so thought that was pretty good.  Daisyfish romped it in from Chadoora arriving at 11am. We joined Derek’s brother John & Kate for a beer & lunch at the Blue Wren Cafe where I highly recommend the BLT. Daisyfish joined us at the table with a lot to say! Then John offered Ambles to take some of his heavy gear out & hide it on the track so Ambles can carry a light backpack half way, then collect his wine, stove, sleeping bag & such for the last 7kms to Camp.

We enjoyed more rest before dinner. I grabbed a few extras from the IGA including some Heat cream for my pained knee. It is still sore & tender unfortunately. Back at the Dwelly Pub for a chicken parmigiana where Daisyfish, Dave & Jayn joined us. Again Ambles Axe was the talk around the table, & now also his big knife as he decided to take it back from Kerry, as he changed his mind & needed it for some purpose. Now I’m sure there will be hot talk about a thur hiker carrying an Axe & Dagger with a lost woman in green shorts spreading down the track😂😂😂!

Tomorrow is a short day of 13kms after our breakfast at the Blue Wren Cafe! As there is no phone signal through most of this 128km section, the next update is probably a week away. Time to disconnect from civilisation again….

I have made a routine now to pack all my day hiking clothes into my sleeping bag at night, this helps keep them warm as there is nothing worse than getting out of a warm sleeping bag, into the crisp cold morning air & putting cold, sometimes damp clothes on. Ambles has taken Sarah’s advice & smothers Eucalyptus oil into his feet every evening before bed, making the whole shelter smell of Eucalyptus. Today we had a 20km day into town, which is pretty flat the whole way, but Ambles was dreading the kms. Wanted to start early & get up at 5am. So he nudged me at 5am, I was like, “It’s cold! I will get up at 5.30!” and rolled over. Ambles got up anyway & started packing. Then at 5.30 he reminded me again. Ok ok! Veronique stirred into life around 6.30 & as we prepared to go at 7.15am, Kirsty & Gijs were up organising their breakfast.

And so we set off into more dead woodlands, no bird life as everything was burnt out. It was so overcast it felt like a drizzle but the day quickly warmed up. I was in front when I came across a man & woman cutting up tree logs for firewood, their car right in the middle of the road. They were yelling at each other than they noticed me. “Oh, out for a stroll?” The guy goes probably not realising the Bibbulmun track runs along this road. Ambles came through later but they had already left & one must have peed on the road as Ambles asked me when he caught up, “Did you pee in the middle of the road back there?” I said, “Excuse me! I do not! I go into the bush behind a log!” Ambles was so proud of himself saying, “We have done 10kms by 10am! That’s great!” But Kirsty & Gijs then came stomping through. Kirsty said, “It’s surprising how a pub beer & meal makes you move quicker!” I said to Ambles we might as well say our goodbyes now as no chance we will catch them at the pub, they would be long gone in their car driving back to Perth. He said, “No, we will see them at the pub!” He called out to them, “Where’s Grandma?!” Kirsty goes, “She isn’t far behind!” I was right, we didn’t see them again. Then Veronique comes marching along with ease saying, “Oh I can’t wait for my pint of beer at the pub!” I wondered why she made walking look so effortless, yes her tiny front pack & her small backpack helps, but I noticed at Chadoora she wears  Hoka One One trail shoes – that’s why! She is springing along on pillows of air under her feet. That made me miss my trusty Hoka’s at home, so comfy they are. But they have done so much mileage I decided to take my Lowa’s that are meant to be the bees knees. I have worn these boots for the Cape to Cape & multi day hikes no problems. But this trip my feet are suffering. After 10 odd kms, my toes & heels start rubbing against the inside of the boots making them sore & walking not so pleasant. Now I have to consider swapping over to a larger size Hoka’s different trail boot sitting in Ambles car with other emergency back ups, in hope they will be better. I want my old ones! ☹️

The Waugal markers are lacking in the last few kms, making it frustrating. We go down to the railway tracks but then there is no marker to leave the track so Ambles keeps on walking right on the railway track. I said this aren’t right we meant to be back up on the dirt road beside it. He goes well he will keep walking on the railway line into Dwellingup. But the steam engine train still runs along it on the weekends. So I check the path above & find a Waugal up there. The track also tends to go off a wide 4WD road & back on a couple of times. But going off it is narrow & overgrown. At one point, some large ass tree had fallen down across the narrow trail, we had to bush bash around & over logs risking a tick jumping on us, while less than 10 feet away was the road! A drone filming us from above would have shown how ridiculous the whole thing was! Back in 2016 as we walked south to north in pouring rain, we had missed a turn off. Today we didn’t miss it, but it was overgrown & yucky, besides going besides the railway track which is why I think the Bibbulmun organisation planned these goat trail detours from the road. So in pouring rain, we would have been drenched completely. And again the Waugal marker wasn’t placed well at the south end so it was no wonder we had missed the turn off back then!

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As it was 20kms, we stopped for a quick cous cous, tuna & beans lunch I had pre soaked. I wanted a nice spot but Ambles was so knackered he wanted to stop & rest on one of those goat trails overgrown with bushes. As we finished lunch, along came Dave & Jayn. Dave said, “Hey! Thought you two would be at the pub by now!” Ambles watched them walk off noticing they carry 38 / 40 litre little backpacks as well. He said, “What the hell?! They come from Melbourne & they carry small backpacks?!! What do they carry? Am I the stupid one out here with my big heavy 22kg backpack?!!” Well we know they do have a tent & a small stove similar to a jet boil. Poor Ambles was feeling defeated. He had asked Veronique at camp did she think he could go all the way to Albany with his load he carries. She had said, “Sure, sure!” So the first ones up & started walking were the last to arrive in town. Hence our trail name. Ambles still angry goes, “And what is it about getting to the pub early?!” Then he realised they all don’t carry red wine to consume each night or have a sneaky sip of honey whiskey over the campfire! 😁

My feet were hurting & we were 2.5kms to go when Ambles became desperate for the toilet. He asked if there was a toilet on track. I laughed at that. Said there is one in 2.5kms, but he couldn’t wait so he dropped his load & flew into the bushes. I was fed up & said that I will keep going so I did, the second last person to arrive in town. My friend Kerry was there waiting with our resupply box. She grabbed a chair from her car, I happily sat down, ripping off my boots & socks. My poor red feet. Ambles came like 15 or 20 minutes later. We headed over to our motel room but had to get the keys from the pub. There were so many people there, but we were the only two smelly hikers that stood out. We got surprised as Derek’s brother John, & wife Kate had come for the weekend & were waiting outside the pub! After dumping our packs in our room, we attended to the second most important thing – pint of beer at the pub! So we sat outside, with two other friendly guys that had joined John & Kate. One pulled out his guitar & harmonica, played us a tune. We watched as the crowds of people all took off back home. We spilt our food box & sent stuff back with Kerry for my parents to bring halfway between Dwellingup & Collie. John & Kate were going to catch up with us tomorrow. Kerry had to head back home, was great seeing her once again!

The visitor centre had closed so we will have to go & register in the trails log book tomorrow. Our motel is simple but luxurious compared to the shelter life we have in the bush. I reckon my hot shower went for 30 minutes as I scrubbed & cleaned myself head to toe. Tomorrow we need to get all our clothes cleaned. Oh for clean clothes! Our room stinks badly from our gear! Dave walked pass our motel spotting Ambles sitting out front with a red wine. Dave & Jayn are staying somewhere 800 metres away, Jayn didn’t want to go out for dinner so Dave was off to buy some food to cook up. We planned it perfect staying next door to the Pub! Then it was off to the Dwelly Pub for dinner. My steak n chips I had been drooling over in my head for the past two weeks finally in front of me! Ambles eyes were bigger than his stomach as he ordered oysters & a big lamb shank meal he couldn’t finish. Veronique was there with Deb & Mel, two other End to Enders from QLD.  We all sat together. Veronique said she had a huge burger & Beer at midday sitting with Kirsty & Gijs that waited for us. But then they had to leave. Deb & Mel started the same day as us & saw Ambles when he had got lost & didn’t know if I was still behind or in front. So they sent the message down the track of have you seen the lost woman in green shorts? One said to Ambles, “You have lost some weight from the first day we saw you!” They are both in their 60’s & while they were in front, took 2 whole rest days in Dwellingup & are heading out tomorrow. Really nice ladies, we will meet again in Collie as they have another 2 whole rest days there. Veronique is heading straight out again tomorrow, so we won’t see her again. She was saying if she has time, she will do the Cape to Cape after, her plane leaves on the 25th of October. Deb & Mel were like, “We aim to get into Albany on the 25th of October!” Veronique was saying how there is no phone signal throughout this next section. Damn! Just have to go without the internet, read a book & enjoy the bush for the next 7 days on track! By 8pm, it was well past our bedtime & we were both exhausted. We all wished each other happy trails & went to sleep in a proper bed! With proper pillows & blankets! 😊

Ambles got the indoor fire going but not everyone could enjoy it due to lack of space. Kirsty & Gijs went back to their tent after dinner, probably played one of their card games like ‘Shithead’ until it was time for bed. Us & Veronique (Bab as she calls herself on Facebook) sat silently in front of the fire for a good hour. Veronique Facebooked away not saying a word, Ambles read his kindle while I stared into the flames feeling bored. Veronique sat her chair right in front of the fire enjoying every bit of heat, “I have been so cold these last two nights! No fire!” Ambles at one point asked Veronique about her backpack. She said she don’t carry a tent or a stove or very much at all, her base weight of her pack is around 5kgs without food. She was going to have cold noodles when she arrived but Gijs offered her boiling water. Maybe we have too much creature comforts making our packs so heavy, but I do enjoy my hands around a hot cuppa first thing. Love my heated rehydrated meals & couldn’t stand to eat cold yuck every day. Ambles uses his Axe daily building a campfire for everyone to enjoy, but people ridicule his Axe. Tristan carries his own camp stool chair to sit on. Different strokes for different folks as they say.  It was so much warmer inside our 4 walls & Ambles got too hot & slept without his beanie for the first time.

The sun hits the hut early in the morning, quickly warming up the day. Before we had set off, Veronique had a request for us all to sing happy birthday to her grandson as she videoed to send it to him. Her grandson was turning 6 the following day. As Veronique didn’t have a tent, she had to go to Chadoora instead of Dwellingup. The 14.7kms was too easy for her, she left later than us but quickly overtook us with her quick walking pace. The walk started with a long descent down Mt Wells, my right knee still causing issues & throbbing away as I took the descent slowly & careful. At least it wasn’t rocky, just a easy flat descent. I went to the ‘seat’ the Guthook app said was there. But the ‘seat’ was nonexistent. Most of the walk was pretty easy wide gravelly, sandy paths, slight ups nothing too strenuous.

The last 5 kms was all burnt out by some recent ‘Prescribed Burns’ by the Department of Parks & Wildlife. Have to say it’s much nicer to walk through lush green vegetation & wildflowers, birds singing & flying tree to tree rather than some burnt out land of charred trees, leaves dead all fallen on the ground with the subtle small regrowths trying to emerge from the ground. I know it has to be done, but looks so unappealing. And so much of it burnt all the way to the shelter! But we got there, after 12.30 making good time. Veronique had already settled in. It wasn’t long before Kirsty & Gijs showed up.

There was no phone signal, so we had a pretty relaxing afternoon, reading books, chatting away. Veronique made mention of Daisyfish a day behind us. Veronique says people are so inspired by her. “Why me? I’m fit & hike so much. Sure I’m 70 what has that to do with it? I’m inspired by Daisyfish! There is she, 50, a little overweight & not hiking fit, deciding to do this whole track to lose weight & improve her life! Don’t be inspired by me!” Ambles struggled to get a fire going, the wood left by the fire pit was hopeless, the fire kept dying. Until he pulled it out & found better wood, did the fire take off. And there was midgees, they were attracted to the fire & smoke, trying to bite us. Ambles one point totally smoked out the Shelter as the fire pit was very close by. Poor Veronique was sitting in the top bunk, choking on thick clouds of smoke😕. Then these 3 cyclists turned up that shouldn’t be there on the Bibbulmun. One asked Ambles where he was hiking to. Ambles told him hopefully Albany that other hikers tell him off for saying the word ‘hopefully’. The guy goes, “Well mate, there’s a bus you can catch, will take you to Albany!” They must of known they were not allowed to ride there as they soon took off again. I had discovered a small blister on my right heel, my first one so far so quickly attended to it with a needle & fixamul tape.

Two more hikers turned up after 4.30 having double hutted from White Horse Hills. Dave & Jayn, from Melbourne doing an end to end too. Dave said he had been following us all in the trail log book saying to Veronique ‘You are Veronique?’ And looking at me saying ‘Rose?’ Ambles was away chopping more firewood at that time. It is a funny hiking community. Us 5 only been a group of 5 since last night but Dave & Jayn did not feel a part of our group & hung back at another table not joining our group around the campfire. Veronique asked them if they had seen her pink piglet & umbrella she lost on Mount Cooke. Dave goes, “Oh yeah I saw those looked odd both up there but there were all these day hikers so just left them there”. Veronique goes, “Noooo! My poor piglet!” She hopes someone will read her post on Facebook & send piglet down to her, umbrella not so important. Dave & Jayn retired to bed early & the rest of us stayed up to 8pm before calling it a night. This was our last night together & even Veronique had turned very chatty with us, telling us places she has been, places we should go.  It was funny, over the table as we prepared our dinners, Veronique goes, “Important question, when I get into Dwellingup, do I have a pint of beer at the pub first or shower first?” We all went, “Definitely have a beer first, then shower & go back for a second pint!” It sure felt weird knowing we were heading into town tomorrow after being bush ferals for 2 weeks! Ambling Rose – Slow Strollers on the Bibbulmun 😊.

luckily it was not as cold as the previous morning, I had slept well, Ambles had some trouble finding sleep. But his toes stayed warm! We were up 5.45am getting our breakfast & getting all packed up. I was ready by 7.30am but it takes Ambles longer, we didn’t leave until 8am. Walking out of camp pass Gijs & Kirsty whom were still in their tent. We had an initial climb up the hill which was helpful in getting me warmed up. My right knee was still hurting, if not one thing, it’s another! At least my right ankle felt fine now. The climb over the hill was lovely passing big boulders & granite tops. I love the uniqueness of ‘balancing rock’ but left my sunglasses there. Lucky I had gone only 50 metres along before realising & rushing back to retrieve them.

The descent down was an easy gradual pathway not the kind with jumbled rocks & boulders in your way. The walk today was 14.3kms most of it along flat ground passing different kinds of ground lands. We gobbled up the last of our delicious banana bread cake. Today felt warmer as the sun made me feel oh so good! My knee had stopped hurting. At one point, I made sure Ambles saw me take a left turn. I waited for him 15 odd minutes by an old unused water tank & crumbling old shed. He had missed the left turn & continued another 200 metres before thinking this don’t look right! He says he was distracted by his power banks & mobile, checking the solar panel was charging them. I felt annoyed & gave him some grief, walked ahead, cooled off then we were back on speaking terms again. There is litter unfortunately discarded around by thoughtless lazy people. Empty water bottles, cans & packaging just thrown into the bushes, spoiling the beauty.

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The last 1.5kms is a steep uphill walk to Mt Wells going up 150 metres. It was tough, there was a lot of heavy laboured breathing going on with many rest stops. Ambles had agreed to have lunch at the shelter. He got in 1.30, 20 minutes after me. God did my boots & socks reek when I got them off! 😖 A severe washing is needed in 2 days time! Bodies & clothes! Mt Wells is such a nice spot. An old fireman’s hut with an old fireman watch tower to admire the views as you are right on top of the hill. The winged insects are also friendly here. We set ourselves up in the main room that sleeps 4 people. There is a tiny off room for 1 or 2 people to cosy on up in if need be. Gijs & Kirsty rocked up an hour later, they were going to set up in the tiny room but Kirsty didn’t like it in there so up went the tent. Some people think Mt Wells is haunted. Not compared to Ellensbrook Campsite it aren’t!

So Babs (Veronique) from France has double hutted from Gringer Creek arriving at 4.20pm here. Emu told us she was coming but she was surprised when I alerted Ambles that Bab had arrived! Am I a stalker?! No I was expecting her arrival following her on the Facebook Bibbulmun hikers group. She is 70 years old & doing an end to end. She did the PCT when she turned 60. An incredible woman! She was hoping to get into Dwellingup tomorrow but found out there is no accommodation available as a couple of big events are on. She saw a snake on the trail that didn’t want to move. They are coming out now 😳Babs took the small room in the end. She said Daisyfish says hi to us as they were at Gringer Creek last night. 😊 Tristan stopped writing in the trail log book & Simone doesn’t register herself at all which she is suppose to. So maybe they are in Dwellingup now? Ambles rang & booked us a room at the Dwellingup Motel Sunday & Monday night as he was so stressed about arriving & there not being any accommodation available. His solar panel was playing up stopped charging our important gadgets. Seems alright now hopefully but he is ordering a backup one.

And as I blog away in the fire watch tower, my man makes & delivers me a cuppa tea! He’s a keeper! And now he is smoking out our room with getting the indoor fireplace going. Should be nice n warm tonight!

It got down to a freezing minus 3 degrees overnight. It was the worse sleep Ambles had, he was so frozen cold, he stuck his feet through the arms of his jumper but still his toes were numb. He said he almost felt like setting up the tent in the wee early hours of the morning. I could feel the icy chill coming through my sleeping bag & liner. The outside table had a layer of ice on it. We slept in to well after 6am. Ambles face was covered fully with his beanie & his sleeping bag up to his chin. A sight not often seen with him as he is usually too warm in the sleeping bag.

Us & Emu were up first reluctantly getting our breakfasts. Ambles with every item of clothing on including rain jacket & rain pants😊. Me & Emu stayed in our sleeping bags looking like a couple of big worms at the table. But soon we had to brave the cold, my hands suffering the most becoming painfully cold & numb as I packed up. Kirsty hates the cold & was very unimpressed with camping in freezing conditions, she felt the cold also through their tent. Can agree with her on that! It was way too cold for me! Emu was first to leave with his turtle called ‘Squirtle’ hanging off his backpack. He looked at his watch & goes, “I was suppose to leave 6 minutes ago!” With that he was off, his ProCam attached to one of his hiking poles as he does a vlog of his hike.

Kirsty & Gijs left before us, we had a late start at 8.45am! I set off at a brisk pace to warm up, feeling the sun on my face felt bliss. My little Galicia bell chimed away merrily now feel from the confines of the backpack rain cover. We crossed Albany Hwy & left the noise behind, the first 7 kms flat & easy before the climb up our first hill – Boonerring Hill. It was sadly all burnt out by some bushfire or prescribed burn. Not leaving much green vegetation. I took off in front to do the short spur trail to the summit. Kirsty had slipped & was nursing a sore behind. The path is quite slippery in places don’t I know it! The summit was windy & cold but with 360 degree views around.

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Ambles was well in front as I rejoined the track & heading down the steep descent, off the hill then a long flat part before going up the second hill – Kimberling Hill. Here I finally caught up with Ambles & I just kept plugging ahead up the hill with our food. He was not happy with me as he wanted lunch. But only 3kms to go! Unfortunately Kimberling Hill goes up, across, up, across for damn forever! You wonder just when the hell the climb up will be finished! My right knee was hurting, my toes hurting in my boots. We were here 3 years ago when a bushfire burnt all of it. The BTF put up blue ribbons to mark the track. All there was were burnt trees & small regrowths. Today was unrecognisable a different hill entirely full of green, lush trees, shrubs & wildflowers galore. In fact the plants were taking over the track! So nice to see & how quickly they recover after a bushfire. I saw few remnants of blue ribbon on the ground.

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So I arrived into White Horse Hills Shelter 2.05pm. Ambles laboured in at 2.35 looking worse for wear. Kirsty & Gijs were already set up. But we all had lunch after 3pm, dinner a couple of hours later! Ambles went off with his axe cutting wood for the fire, then lost his axe & had to look for it. He said if he couldn’t find it then at least his pack would be a bit lighter. Gijs helped him locate it. Then he organised a fool proof system for keeping his toes warm tonight, was quite proud of his innovative idea. Ambles even mentioned how appreciative he was of my food preparations awwwwhhh!❤️ Emu had left us a note on his way to Mt Wells. It was just the four of us huddled around the campfire until 7pm – bedtime. It is not unusual for one to stand talking by a campfire dangling a pair of underwear to dry them out. The simple life out here! Ambles almost fell in the toilet as it has a lean to it, the door self closes loudly & he stumbled backwards almost into the toilet seat. But the campsite is lovely nestled between two hills, surrounded by woodland. Was very peaceful & we had the Shelter to ourselves. It had been a tough 16.4km hill climbing day & we were both exhausted! I was happy to crawl into my sleeping bag at 7.30pm.

Had a pretty good nights sleep awoke at 11.30pm then dozed off with funny dreams. Ambles on the other hand was kept awake as Ross was snoring so loudly in his tent. Slept in until 5.50am. Body ached. Top of my right foot & ankle feeling tender & sore from hitting the rock on my waterslide event yesterday. Today we had 16kms. Jill & Ross said they are doing a south section later in October, might go north to south to join us as they liked our company! They set off then us, the younger couple still enjoying a lazy morning lay in their tent.

This section is pretty flat, going through lots of vegetation & blackboy areas. I stayed ahead of Ambles taking care with my right ankle now. It was an overcast day not much sun, was feeling cold most of the time. We were meeting our trail angels for our second box resupply. Ambles grumbled saying, “I’m feeling rushed!” But still didn’t make him go faster! Ambles has two speeds; normal slow amble & faster amble pace by a few seconds 😂. I was so far in front when I hit Wearne road, 800metres from the Campsite & saw Ambles car parked there.

There was our trail angels with more sandwiches & choc milk, iced coffee for Ambles. We loaded up our backpacks some more before staggering off to our camp, waving farewell again, our tummies full. Even got fresh baked banana bread to bring with us! The young couple were right behind us, this time they chatted to us. Quite a nice couple called Kirsty & Gijs. Another end to ender rocked up having double hutted from Mt Cooke this morning. His name is Mick from over Mackay & goes by the name ‘Emu’ on track. He said yes, Daisyfish was at Mt Cooke last night so good to know she is back on the track! Mick is doing 30km days so double hutting tomorrow as well, as he is training for the Pacific Crest Trail in America as well as other trails. This campsite is lovely despite being close to Albany Hwy hence there is a lot of traffic noise. Tristan had left us another hello Jodie & Derrick! in the trail log book.

The Three Ways Roadhouse closed months ago unfortunately for renovations otherwise I was looking forward to a hot greasy burger & chips! It is going to be freezing over the next few nights dropping down to minus 2 tonight! Gonna freeze my toes off! Ambles has yet another Campfire going to keep us warm as the temperature is already dropping 😒. Everyone enjoyed the fire & chatting about each other. Ambles pulls out his half a toothbrush he cut the end off, saying, “See I am going ultralight with my half a toothbrush & my axe!” I’m  sure glad no more rain now & going to be sunny days! 4 days to Dwellingup & we have done 134kms – go us!

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That night at the shelter it just kept raining. Tristan & Ambles tried to keep the campfire going & us 4 huddled around it under 3 umbrellas chatting before calling it a night at 7.30pm. Sometime during the night, Ambles nudged me saying, “Do you hear that Cuckoo bird?” “What? The Owl?” “Oh yeah, an Owl” 😌 And I coughed all night, keeping Ambles awake again. Tristan woke us up at 5.30am with a huge fart – thanks!

We said our farewells to Tristan & Simone. Simone said to Ambles if she yo yo’s back, then she will have a wine with us. She declines any food offered & has only cold slushy porridge for breakfast, lunch & dinner. And water is all the nutrients she is consuming. But she does readily accepts a hot coffee from Tristan each morning given to her while she is still rugged up in her sleeping bag. Ambles decided as I am quicker than him at walking that he leaves early & I catch up, so he left first & I left camp 15 minutes after him but quickly caught up.

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We had no rain on the climb up Mt Cooke that Ambles was concerned with. The climb on the north side is pretty easy going. The views up along the top glorious, the sun was shining & I was in no hurry but enjoyed taking photos & stopping to watch the traffic go by on Albany Hwy not too far away. Ambles wanted off the mountain before the dark clouds coming in broke rain onto us. Before the descent there is a hidden cave with its own cave book & pens to write in. Also been told by people about ticks in there so Ambles refuses to go near it. I heard him go pass while I was in there, nice & cool perfect if it was a hot day. Then the one bout of rain all day broke & lasted probably only 15 minutes.

The descent on the south side is harder as you have to traverse black open rocky granite steep slopes. And now it was wet. I went down oh so carefully with my poles, feeling my shoes slip a couple of times. Then BAM! My feet shot out under me & I fell onto the granite rock speeding down it with my backpack on, poles waving in the air. The scary moment stopped when my feet hit some rocks breaking my slippery wet water slide down Mount Cooke! I checked myself was bleeding from a couple of cuts on my fingers. Shorts were soaked wet. No rips or tears in my clothing or backpack. I gingerly made my final descent avoiding the black granite rock & walking around them on the moss & rocks. I met Bruce the pink frog still hiding under his rock & safety got off the hill where I tended to my cuts.

It was a total of 13.4kms to Nerang & the rest of the walk was flat & easy. I passed a couple going up Mt Cooke. Had to walk fast to catch up with Ambles whom was way ahead by now. I caught up with him with only 4 kms to go. He was feeling pretty beat & tired. Wasn’t too impressed with my dramas on Mt Cooke either. Was saying, “I told you we had to get off before the rain came!” I beat him into Nerang, had shoes off & enjoying the plastic chairs  Steve Sertis from the BTF left there by the time he wobbled in. This is Steve’s Shelter he looks after & you can tell. Immaculate & tidy, the natives pruned nicely. Lots of extra hooks & even a Shelter map. This shelter has a funny set up with one water tank by the shelter & the other far away by the toilet.

We had late lunch of noodles & hot cuppas. Then Ambles was out chopping up firewood to get the campfire going. Two young people came & set up tent. They didn’t speak to us & kept to themselves. They are doing a section from Sullivan Rock to Dwellingup. Then an older couple in their early 60’s came through from Gringer Creek doing a section to Brookton Hwy. Jill & Ross, their trail name Jilaros. They were interested in chatting to us as they set up their tent on the shelter floor. Jill recommended some places to stay further south. They have a few sections left to finish the whole Bibbulmun Track. And they both have Aarn backpacks like Ambles, only not as big! We had a quiet night by the campfire no rain! Went to bed at 7pm. Too much excitement today thank you!

We were tucked away in bed by a very late 8.30pm. It felt absolutely freezing cold outside our sleeping bags, this being after Ambles drama with his head torch dying on him & not bringing spare batteries for it.😏 I didn’t sleep as well & my feet were freezing, my toes were going numb inside my sleeping bag! Just before 6am, we heard two voices coming in. One guy was saying to the other, “There won’t be anyone here. Who would be walking in this weather?!” Shone his torch into the shelter, “Oh shit, there are people here!” They went pass up toward the tent campsite area, moments later we heard a car start up & leave. Who the hell were they? Simone goes, “I hope they left us hot coffees!”

We all chatted over breakfast. Simone only carries a 8kg 38litre backpack – exact same as the one I used for the Camino. She eats all cold food & doesn’t carry a stove. She also has done so much hiking, her longest distance in a day being 77kms in New Zealand on a very wet day. They both met Walking Bushie on the track or they prefer her actual name Sara. Both in love with Sara & fighting over her. Wanted to bring her southwards with them as well. Ambles wanted me to sniff his two pairs of socks, couldn’t smell which ones were the fresh pair as they both smelt fine. Tristan goes, “You’re losing your sense of smell!” They set off before us, Ambles was glad for the peace & quiet once they were gone, he found Simone ‘very chatty’. 🙂 While the sun is out, more rain was forecasted today. That didn’t liven up my spirits. I feel I need a good shower, good pub meal, some rest, I’ll be ready to go again! 7 days until Dwellingup – can we make it?😒

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I was waiting & ready by 7.30am, Ambles was fluffing about still packing, going to the John one last time, still fluffing & sending out a message on his Garmin. I stood quietly patiently waiting – important key words. If it was Ambles he would be voicing his ready & wanting to go polite terms for hurry up! We left 8am, first climbing Mt Cuthbert my favourite hill, just perfect weather, cold n windy but the sun on my face just heavenly! I waited almost 15 minutes for Ambles to make it up the top while I enjoyed the glorious morning views😊.

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Heading down, I passed two middle aged day hiking women. One asked, “Are you out here alone?” I said my husband was behind me. She goes, “Oh! You’re a trail blazer then!” This 7km section is a real lovely day hike which I did before actually on my birthday last year! Heading up Mt Vincent is a bitch compared to Mt Cuthbert. Seems longer, steeper & rockier. I huffed & puffed like a steam train engine & again waited at the top, sun in my face, waiting for Ambles. Thank goodness for this weather! I would have hated traversing this section in rain, it’s slippery as it is! The cold gusty winds almost blew us off coming down. Quick stop at Sullivan Rock for a cheeky extra resupply from our trail angels (my parents).

Crossed Albany Hwy to a smorgasbord on the picnic table – sandwiches, choc milk, iced coffee, crisp chips, lollies, beer nuts, salted peanuts. We gobbled down our sandwiches, the best tasting sandwiches ever! That brief catch up was a real lift me up. Felt better as we swung back out onto the Bibbulmun Track heading now to our next shelter, 6kms away. Total distance about 13.4kms. Luckily this section is basically easy & flat for most of it. The sun was still shining as Ambles  struggled with his heavier pack, now loaded down with another goon bag of red wine. 😁 Ambles doesn’t like using his walking poles, but he got them out for the initial downhill bit saying, “I’ve forgotten how to use these!” Just ahead of us I spotted a Daddy Emu (I have learnt), ushering his babies along the track & into the bush. Was so adorable! The rain came momentarily & blue skies came out. As soon as Ambles got in, the rain started & has set in. Nice to be in camp now. Tristan was breaking up firewood & Simone was having a nap. We heard her screech out loud, “I just brushed off a tick on my leg I thought it was a scab!” She emerged & went to check she didn’t have any more ticks feeding off her. This made Ambles super paranoid in which he checked himself. They are double hutting tomorrow & moving into Dwellingup way ahead of us. So guess we will see whom next turns up that started later than us. I explored & discovered the trickling little brook nearby I hadn’t seen before. Ambles & Tristan got another campfire going even with the rain coming & going.

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