Day Eighteen: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

Distance: 21.9km, Steps: 29,314, Time total: 5.5hrs

I was feeling tired first thing this morning from the late night & the sparkling wine I had consumed with dinner. We did our usual pack up & breakfast at the hotel before we set off on the Camino again. Mr D said his throat was feeling better, but he is having an issue with his right heel & is experiencing some pain when walking.

We left around 7.30am, the morning certainly was not as cold & I felt too warm in my jacket & snow gloves. We walked out of Burgos which was tricky, it was poorly sign posted. Mr D almost had us lost but thanks to the E-tex he could see we had gone off the path, everyone coming up behind us were just following us assuming we knew the way. We all backtracked & followed Mr D’s GPS out of the city until the Camino signs were easy to follow again.

We had a good fast pace going on & soon went through the only two villages we go through. We stopped at the second village before we step out on the Meseta. Mr D had a cafe solo which was far better than the two weak & lukewarm coffees he had at the hotel for breakfast.

So it was 10kms on the Meseta before reaching our stop. There were so many Pilgrims , I didn’t know where they all came from but it was making me feel anxious that they would take all the beds in town & we would have to walk on more. I was feeling annoyed at the vast number of Pilgrims & a lot carried a small pack or nothing at all! They must of started at Burgos & have their gear transported.

Mr D said the Camino was testing him today – with voices – belonging to 4 Italian women with tiny daypacks chatting constantly loudly in Italian following close behind us. I soon fell behind tired & my shoulders were hurting under the strain of my backpack. So I quietly laughed watching the women yakking away right behind Mr D. But he started walking faster till he heard 3 voices, then faster still till he heard 2 voices. Finally they couldn’t keep up & Mr D shot way ahead – I could only pick him by his black umbrella.

It had become quite hot & the Meseta is dusty, brown & barren with the odd trees to look at. Because my rash on my leg is taking a while to resolve, I have to wear my long pants as the sun will only aggravate it. It is too warm & uncomfortable wearing long pants & I was feeling frustrated about it. I struggled slowly along as one woman passed me, went to the side of the road, pulled her shorts down for a toilet stop in full view. When you gotta go, you gotta go. Most people go discreetly behind a tree or bushes, but there’s not much options on the Meseta!

There was another man walking his dog, he let the dog crap right in the middle of the track & left it there. Lucky I spotted it before I stepped in it! Just outside the small town of Hornillos Mr D stopped for me to catch up. The town has a population of 60 so there’s not much to it.

The Camino provides as they say & I had nothing to worry about – most Pilgrims were passing through to the next town – another 10kms away in the heat. I was done with walking today! We booked into a small Albergue called Meeting Point. Back into the dormitory rooms we are so familiar with. It has a nice grassed garden area to relax in too.

So we went over to the cafe / bar for lunch & Mr D saw the Israel woman from last night sitting outside the other Albergue. He asked her how she found the dinner last night & she replied “It was ok, not the best I’ve had”. We thought it had been bloody marvellous after eating hamburgers, sandwiches, patatas bravas, croquettes & the likes for the past weeks! And it cost a pretty dime too. Well we didn’t linger with the woman. The cafe was busy & people were shoving in front of me to order,  Mr D was getting pretty annoyed. Then we sat at our table & waited, waited, waited which is what you do a lot of in Spain – patience is a virtue. Mr D went in to check on our order & they had forgotten! Lucky we weren’t walking further & in a hurry. We finally got our meals & enjoyed our refreshing beers to go with it. Some poor soul left his trekking poles behind at our table. He had gone a kilometre down the road then had to walk back & get them once he had realised.

Then we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through town when one van came through, blaring the horn loudly as he drove through, turned around & drove back still on the horn. It’s the towns supermarket on wheels as the residents rushed over to buy their fruit, veg & meats supply. One cafe right up the end of the street actually lets people play an instrument of their choice if they want. But Mr D preferred a quiet red instead in our little garden. One young lady was playing the guitar, singing with a beautiful voice, sitting on the steps by the street.

The showers at the Albergue are pretty average – the water dribbles out lukewarm on a timer so I have to keep pressing in the button before the water cuts out. We enjoyed a Pilgrims communal meal to end the day. I think most people were tired & conversation was low key. We were seating next to 3 men, an American, Englishman & German. There also was one cyclist Pilgrim at our table that had covered 70km today on bike. We had a delicious serve of chicken paella, salad & yogurt for dessert ( Mr D’s favourite haha! ). Being so tired, it was an early night for the both of us, & it was only 8pm!


About the author AmblingRose

We are keen hikers based in Perth, Western Australia. We have hiked 7 New Zealand multi-day walk trails, the 800km Camino Frances in Spain, the Cape to Cape in WA, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, Malaysia. We have hiked sections of the 1003 km Bibbulmun Track in WA with plans to complete an end to end this year in Spring, 2019.

All posts by AmblingRose →

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