Caldas de Reis to Padron – 19.9kms

We woke early despite our plan to start at 8am and have a little sleep in. Despite the alcohol consumption last night, we all felt good, but tired, always tired. Mr D was feeling very lack lustre today, saying his legs felt heavy and just an overall overwhelming tiredness. Even Karen was up before us! Normally we are first up, then we hear her alarm go off half an hour later. We had breakfast in the apartment which works very well rather than finding a cafe open early morning. Karen went downstairs and outside to see how the temperature was and if she needed a jacket. Two Aussie guys go pass in shorts and shirts saying it’s fine, not that cold, she needs to get on with it and start walking! Well she won’t believe anyone again. We set off and it was bloody cold! Mr D stopped after 20 minutes to put a jacket on. Meanwhile me & Karen bared the cold while our hands went numb and we couldn’t function our phones.

We weren’t walking long, wasn’t many people, than suddenly there’s peak hour pilgrim traffic. 50 plus people march on by like we a snails. I wish I had my little fingerless gloves. But I gave up and packed them away in the backpack as it never was cold enough for them. The first cafe we came across was flooded with pilgrims and a long queue to buy drinks and food. So Mr D pressed on. Thought we were not likely to find another cafe until Padron but another few kilometres onwards we found one 50 metres off the route, popular with the cyclist pilgrims. And it wasn’t busy so we stopped for coffee and croissants. Mohammed from Saudi Arabia turned up. Mr D spoke to him the day he waited in Pontevedra for us. So I met him briefly. He joined us at the table and had the same plans to go to Padron today and finish in Santiago tomorrow.

So we continued after morning tea. And the trail wanders along some lovely woodland forest, the path is wide but not wide enough, comfortable for two people walking in a row. But there are so many cyclists using the same route. And it’s dangerous. Some come up suddenly behind you, and you have to step aside a lot to allow not just one but 5 or 6 cyclists through at a time. It was rather annoying for us walkers. And no doubt for the cyclists having to ding their bells constantly to get through the hordes of walking pilgrims scattered all over the path. We pass through San Miguel that has a couple of bars open. We decide to walk through to Padron for lunch. But my feet started burning again, Karen and Mr D were also struggling along and we didn’t reach Padron to around 1pm. At least the weather was cool and pleasant. Having warmed up slightly.

To push ourselves along, Karen and I would sometimes break out in dance. We did this and one male pilgrim said he had enjoyed our dancing and had noticed us dancing earlier on. So Karen had explained how we pick a song each day. I try very hard to get going, my left ankle is swollen and sore and hates the constant bitumen pounding. In fact last night we all compared our left cankles. I have a permanent cankle due to an old ankle fracture injury. But it hurts each day. I just have to push through. Mr D was trudging along looking uncomfortable and tired. He was definitely struggling today. Karen had a good day. Each day is different. Yesterday I had forgot to mention after leaving our lunch spot suddenly all these fireworks or fire crackers started going off and it went on and on for at least 20 minutes. Really don’t know what that is all about. We were concerned it was gun shots at first but it wasn’t.

So the Pilgrim crowd had really thinned out as we walked into the small village of Padron with our burning and hurting feet. The markets were on in the town centre so there were so many locals enjoying the markets. We found a nice looking restaurant and had to wait for a table. Service was super slow for drinks. This restaurant also does aged meats but we ordered a grill of meats for 2 that the 3 of us couldn’t finish. A real slap up late lunch feast with copious amounts of beer and wine. We only had to walk 5 minutes to our accommodation! This lady at a nearby table had to rudely stare at us a lot. When we got up to leave the whole table was staring at us like we were freaks in a freak show. Anyway, I said let’s tease them, blow the lady a kiss, maybe invite her for a foursome. Mr D wasn’t interested in playing silly games so we just left. 😂

We are staying in a lovely comfortable apartment with two nice double rooms, two bathrooms this time which is super and kitchen, living room and washing machine. No dryer. Some cakes in the kitchen but we will need to go to the supermercado to get more cereal, milk and bananas. Hard to know how much we walk tomorrow. Maybe between 24 & 27kms. The markers have been so inconsistent and incorrect the whole way. Either way, it is a big day with warm temperatures expected to rise to 27 prehaps more. So we don’t want to drag our hot and weary carcasses into Santiago around 5pm. We plan to up super early, leave well before sparrows fart, walking in the dark a couple odd hours before the usual late sunrise at 8.30am. I’m surprised really there isn’t more pop up pilgrim rest stops, entertainers, souvenirs as was the case on the Camino Frances. And certainly we have enjoyed the food and vibe in Portugal much more than in Spain. I remember great tapas and paella on the Camino Frances and it has been severely lacking for me on this Camino.

We went out in the early evening looking for food and drinks. It’s Sunday and unfortunately most restaurants and bars are closed. All the Supermercado stores closed at 2.30pm. So there goes our nice breakfast plans. The first bar was loud and noisy and we were about to go elsewhere and Mohammed was drinking inside by himself, saw us and came out and beckoned us inside. We started with cocktails then moved to a restaurant for sharing meals and Mohammed loaded us up with red vino and cheese platters. We were meant to have an early night but was a late one! Mr D obviously was enjoying some male company and didn’t want to leave! Ahhhhhh, we have a big walk tomorrow and it will be hot so we will start early early in the dark!

We had friends that were meant to walk the Camino with us. They pulled out at the last minute. We promise to carry a keyring on the backpack for them as if they are with us on the walk. I have carried my two on the outside since day one. Mr D has his buried in his backpack the whole time. I asked him will he carry the penguin keyring on the outside of his backpack tomorrow for the last day. He says yes. After a late night we will see. Likely not.