Padron to Santiago – 27kms (6.10.25)

We had to tear ourselves away from Mohammed last night as he was in a party mood. Ordered a second bottle of wine and a big platter of cheeses even though we were full. He must of stayed up to 2am. So we get back to the apartment after 10.30pm and realise we can’t get into the building. The owner hadn’t given clear instructions that there were keys in our room to take when we go out to allow us to get back in. So Karen was messaging the owner. Luckily the people in Spain stay up late and she remotely let us back in. Late night and early start with a big walk. Wasn’t our plan!

The day started at 4.30am. Karen buttered and put jam on all the baby croissants for us to have a little later on the walk. We packed and were on our way in the dark at 6am. And there was only one other pilgrim that passed us. So for the next hour and half it’s just us 3 trudging along in the dark through cobblestone lanes passing houses where the occupants were still asleep. It was cold but when the sun rose, it got more cold! We watched a beautiful sunrise and pilgrims started emerging on the track. We got a takeaway coffee that was a good pick me up. I was so sleepy!

Mr D had gone ahead. We found the usual popular spot of wee breaks from the copious amount of used toilet paper on the ground in this beautiful woodlands setting. Karen was most disgusted to find someone had discarded a used tampon of all things on the ground! We are appalled by the inconsiderate, selfish and dumb ass people that think it is fine to leave rubbish all over the ground. We stopped at a nice cafe as I needed the toilet, the food from last night hadn’t agreed with me. So it was still cold, didn’t want anything but as I had used the toilet had to buy something. So we had a hot chocolate. Then plodded on as the day warmed up.

I find the Camino Portuguese route into Santiago lack lustre compared to the Camino Frances. There wasn’t much to look out, lots of road walking and passing through small villages. Mr D went ahead and we lost him until we reached Santiago. Karen’s knee problem decided to flare up again and she suffered along for awhile until the meds kicked in. My right knee was niggling the whole 2 weeks but manageable. Today however it was very sore all day, and I had kept my knee brace on. My left ankle was very swollen and sore but managed better than my right knee. It was too long a walk, I just put up and pushed through the uncomfortable pain and kept walking. I am this close! We weren’t giving up easily.

The day had warmed up, there was 8kms to go, we were climbing long bitumen roads and down long bitumen roads. I was getting tired, my feet killing me. There was nowhere to stop to eat. It wasn’t until we were 1.5kms from the Catedral that we reunited with Mr D at a cafe restaurant that was open! There I downed a big beer than wine and we filled ourselves up with tapas delicious tapas food! Watching pilgrims passing by, heads down, looking hot and bothered.

True to his word, Mr D had attached the penguin key ring to his backpack and I noticed it clanging away as he walked. It was a constant reminder to whom wasn’t there, that was meant to be there with us. So we walked into the Catedral the poor cousin way. No archway, no bagpipes playing. Down a busy shopping and restaurant street filled with people and then round the corner into the plaza. There was the Catedral and the end of our walk. The Santiago Catedral in all her beautiful glory. This time not covered in scaffolding. A sight to behold. Lots of people were there with their backpacks, their bikes, posing, happy, elated joy. Others lay on the ground in relief staring up at the Catedral. And it was hot, after 4pm. We had started at 6am, it had taken all day, but we made it!

Afterwards we went to get our certificates. Then into our apartment, simple, clean, small. Off to the Supermercado for breakfast items. Then finally as we had walked in earlier, spotted Paella Pollo. I had been wanting it since arriving in Spain. So we had Paella then watched a live band play near the Catedral, a perfect end to the day. And the end of our second Camino.

Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis; 22.5kms (4.10.25)

Last night we found quite a nice restaurant In Pontevedra. As most restaurants were opening after 8.15pm for dinner, we pilgrims seek an earlier meal and have limited choices. So this restaurant looked small on the outside but busy already after 7.30pm so that indicated the food was good. We walked inside and were directed out the back into a bigger room. Dinner was excellent. But in Spain, when you ask for vino blanco, they give only a small amount in a big glass and Karen moans, It’s not enough! Two sips and it’s finished! So she had 3 small potion wines. Mr D had straight whisky and they are very generous with the amount they give! I had enough of beer and wine and had a very generous amount of rum with coke. We had some Canadians at the table next to us. They were just travelling around Spain and interested to know our status as an odd three people group. They assumed we had all met on the Camino. Everyone is generally interested in our relationship so to speak 😆. 

In our little downstairs apartment, on our little bed with short legs, it feels like the bed is almost on the floor. We slept in our liners, paranoid about bed bugs. It was hot and stuffy though and Mr D decided to turn the heater back on in the early hours of the morning as he was cold! There was no fan and I was like no I’m sweating here! So he compromised and turned it off and put the albergue blanket over him for warmth. 

We got up early to prepare breakfast and microwave my cuppa tea as there was a kettle but not an electric plug in one. It went on the hot plate but the hot plate wasn’t working. Karen’s alarm went off half an hour later and the zombie appeared in the kitchen saying how little sleep she had. How unenthusiastic she was as she is every morning, about walking that day. Oh no! Do we have to? Can’t we just catch a taxi? Haha No Karen. Mr D was keen to start early before the rains. It forecasted rain in the afternoon. They were wrong. Mr D goes, no bother to leave early, it is raining outside now! 

So just after 7.30am we left into the drizzling rain. This is the real Galician weather we hadn’t experienced yet. Today it was overcast, low clouds, drizzle, heavier drizzle, all day! It never stopped raining the whole walk. And it wasn’t cold, it was humid, humid and wet. The walk is fairly flat with a few hills. No villages, but a few cafe / bars along the way. When Karen and I stepped off the path to desperately pee, we followed the trail of used toilet paper and stepped in someone’s number 2’s. Gross! The wet ground and rain cleaned anything yucky on our shoes away. We walked through some beautiful woodland with moss growing everywhere and up the trees. In the rainy and misty environment it felt like another world, stunning and surreal. 

After 9kms, we hit a cafe which of course was full of pilgrims and they were all crammed inside as the outside tables and chairs were all wet. We found a table inside a shed of sorts and got a round of coffees and cakes. Had another Australian woman from Brisbane sitting at the next table that was listening to our voices and goes Are you Australian?  Yep. She has walked from Baiona. So the cafe had two toilets. And there were queues of ladies waiting for the female toilet so some started using the male toilet. So every time Mr D went to see if it was free, there was a lady in there. He decided to walk on as easy for men to pee by the side of the road. 

Onwards we continued as the rain eased off to a light drizzle. The pilgrim highway continued. Pilgrims with light packs, pilgrims with heavy packs. Pilgrims with those big ponchos that cover them and the backpack making them look like humpback of Notre Dame. Some chose umbrellas like us. Most either had rain jackets or ponchos on. One man walked the whole section with cerebral palsy. People like that are an inspiration, determined to do a walk despite physical disadvantage. We started moving through back quiet roads and vineyards. After 15kms we hit another cafe that was full of pilgrims. We stopped for lunch here and the only free tables were the ones outside in the rain. The owners had set up a couple of long tables in their garage shed so we organised ourselves there, grabbed a light lunch meal with coke. Again being too good and not having alcohol! The queue for the one toilet was a 25 minute wait. Ahhhh well. So I waited. There was another bar further up away from the track that looked less busy but we weren’t to know. 

We had another 6kms to walk and the rain had become more heavy. By this point I was over the rain, being wet, having wet shoes and feet, and still sweating as it was humid. So I increased my walking speed passing many pilgrims. One pilgrim in a black poncho was in front of me and dropped their guts. Charming, the elephants were out. 😄 We joke about elephants blowing their trumpets meaning farting. Bahahaha! I pulled into Caldas de Reis with Mr D hot on my heels trying to catch up. Karen lagged behind, got lost, asked someone for directions as her phone was playing up but made it to the apartment about 15 minutes later. And the rain stopped! 

We have upgraded from last night into a great and comfortable apartment. And has a washing machine plus dryer! Believe me, no apartment had a dryer. But luck had it when we had drenched soggy shoes that won’t dry overnight, we were given a dryer. So we are spoiled here. But no food, a coffee machine with no coffee. But we have muesli still from yesterday. No wine glasses! But we will do with small normal drinking glasses.  Found a swanky little cafe / restaurant that serves cocktails and tapas only 50 metres from our apartment. So we didn’t venture far and had a slap up dinner and drinks, and the cost so cheap!  Some lady kept glancing over checking out my Mr D – the silver fox, he is interesting after all! Eyes elsewhere love! 😄 We ended the night drinking a bottle of Crema De Ginebra and listening to music on the JbL, something we hadn’t done since Apulia. My feet are hurting today from the pounding on pavement all day. Karen has pulled up very well, her foot not causing her grief like yesterday. Mr D decided today to hang back and walk with us or behind us to obviously keep an eye that there wasn’t any problems like yesterday. So we have under 50 kilometres to Santiago now, the finish is very close. 😊

Arcade to Pontevedra (3/10/25) – 14.7kms

As was the second night in Vigo, last night in our lovely apartment it was very humid inside and I woke up around 3am covered in sweat inside my silk liner as I wasn’t taking any more chances with bed bugs. No fan in this room so I opened up the window to let the cool air in and fell back asleep. We had decided on a late 9am start as we were having a short day’s walk. And the apartment had tea, coffee, cereal, bread, croissants, butter, jam, the works! So we had a leisurely morning get up. Wasn’t feeling much hunger for breakfast but as been over eating so much.

So we set off a little after 9am and Mr D didn’t stay long with us. Like only for 50 meters as Karen and I went to get stamps for our passports he kept going and we didn’t see him for the entire walk. Lots of pilgrims were setting off, like lots! We leave Arcade over a gorgeous stone bridge, reminding me of the bridges on the Camino Frances. There we took lots of photos and I had my gigantic ‘stick’ out which is my insta 360 camera on a special edition selfie stick that goes 300cms.

We didn’t realise there would be more hill climbs! More steep cobblestone paths, lots of walkers, lots of cyclists. We climbed and climbed, got another cool wax stamp on our passports. Made multiple toilet stops in the bushes, you could see the popular spots littered with used toilet paper everywhere. This whole section had no public toilets, no real villages to walk through and one coffee van stop for the pilgrims. We hit the bitumen pavement and the elevation was much better, more gentle inclines and descents. Yesterday Mr D had a terrible walking day, today was Karen’s turn. She had a great day yesterday with no foot complaints and no struggles after lunch that she normally gets. But today her left foot was hurting badly. She stopped a couple of times to readjust her toe condoms. But it didn’t help and the pain only got worse and made her walk horrible. I just trudged along same, same. My vasculitis was trying hard to return again. My bites had stopped itching. But I did wake up with a headache and after the hill climbs it had subsided away.

We got into Pontevedra at 1pm so wasn’t too bad. Mr D had been waiting an hour for us as we arrived at a restaurant for lunch. Karen was in a world of pain. We had Aperol Spritz but the people didn’t make it properly it was very bitter. Then we had a 3 course pilgrim menu which was only 2 course. The waiter wasn’t very efficient at his job and kept getting our orders wrong. After our lunch we had 1km to our accommodation. It’s an albergue but we have booked the lower apartment that has two rooms, bathroom, kitchen and living area for ourselves. Now I’m super paranoid about bed bugs. This is an ideal place for them even though you can pick them up anywhere. Mr D and I finally had time together to go for a wander and have a beer, get a bottle of vino. We are in the old part of town and it’s very pretty with its maze of cobblestone laneways. Karen was tucked up in bed, feeling cold, feeling miserable. A short day, but hard day for some. Oh we met the young China ladies from yesterday. They didn’t make it to Pontevedra yesterday as planned and stayed in Arcade too. It was a pretty strenuous section.
Now you will have to imagine the landscape. I’ve downsized photos to an ugly blurry quality picture and WordPress still says it is the incorrect size. So words will have to do. We have 3 days left to get to Santiago. I’m determined to push through however our friend Karen, hopefully will be ok to walk on tomorrow.

We see lots of pilgrims of all sorts, a lot carry tiny day backs so they are getting their luggage transported ahead. There are groups. Couples. Overweight and struggling ones. Pilgrims with obvious knee or ankle problems hobbling along. Ones that smell bad according to Karen 😄 And the walk today lovely besides the hills, besides the copious amounts of used toilet paper and rubbish on the ground. Besides parts that smelt like a sewage station and reeked to high heaven. The alternative walk around the long winding stream was beautiful and shady. Waiting until the restaurants open for dinner now even though I’m full! Better have tapas. Love Spanish tapas ☺️

Vigo to Arcade (2/10/25) – 25kms

Word press is becoming quite a joke. Anyway I can’t upload only two photos. The size of photos apparently become a problem and maybe you won’t read the rest of the blog as I bitch about the platform so much we won’t be continuing with Word Press in the future. And they can stop stealing our money and not providing proper service.

So we had a well needed rest day in Vigo. We should have taken a rest day sooner. Went out on a sailing yacht with our skipper Lucas. Was a fantastic day out on the water and exploring Cies Islands, swimming in the freezing North Atlantic Ocean. They don’t get much winds for sailing here so we basically motored most of the time unlike Western Australia waters that are absolutely crazy, gusty, big swells and all that jazz! Lucas had recommended an excellent restaurant in Vigo. We dined in style and quite late! Mr D was on the piss started with a full glass of straight whisky, he was drunk happy by the time we got to shot glasses of a Baileys similar, similar drink. And there was aged beef, so we had a very happy Mr D. I had to help my two drunk children, Mr D and Karen back to the apartment. It was almost 11pm and we had a 7.30am early start and big walk day!

So Thursday we are out the apartment after 7.30am into the dark morning and it’s busy full of people going to work and school kids. It’s smelly, it’s noisy and it’s humid as. We are sweating bollacks as we walk out to the outskirts of the city. Then it is much cooler and less crowded, noisy. But today’s walk is up a lot, the streets go up quite a steep incline and vice versa it is very sharp and steep coming down. So very hilly, the most demanding walk we have had. And there are many more pilgrims now. Some starting like a young women pair from China starting their first day of the Camino from Vigo.

There is lovely woodlands walks, finding a spot that people go off to pee is easy, it is littered with used toilet paper all over the ground. Even though there is a rubbish bag for it hanging on a tree branch. So many people just don’t care. It is very disappointing and sad. The morning is so lovely, we walk in shade and the weather is cool. We even go up a steep incline to a pilgrims rest stop for morning tea and cake.

All along the track today is Little deposits of dog poo not picked up. The worse was a dogs diarrhoea splatter all over the pavement. And there were many people, one older lady called Victoria we chatted to. She is from Sydney and doing her first Camiño solo, though her daughter came for a week. She transfers her main luggage ahead and carries a tiny day pack and only does like 15 to 18kms a day. Rest days every 4 days. Very smart woman unlike us! There are pilgrims playing their music out loud and singing along. There’s pilgrims that want to run down hill with a big pack on their back. There are groups that pray and hold rosary beads while they walk. So now we see many different types of pilgrims. Mr D was walking up one major steep hill and two women raced pass him like he was standing still. Lots of locals. Lots of cyclists also sharing our Camino path. One local in Redondela didn’t like walkers and honked his car horn loudly as he flew pass us giving us all a fright.

In Redondela we stopped for lunch. Picked us a vegan restaurant. Mr D wasn’t thrilled with his pick. I had a vegan Caesar salad. And we had smoothies. So actually, was the first time we ordered healthy food and no alcohol for lunch! All in all, don’t think we will go back to a vegan eatery. But the service was great and nice spot in the cool shade. We had a hot slog walk to Arcade afterwards. Unfortunately in the afternoon it really gets unpleasantly hot. We walked 2 hours through more steep hills. It was after 4.30pm once we reached our apartment.

And the apartment we have is the best apartment to date! The kitchen is stocked up with food, milk, biscuits, snacks, water. Loads of coffee and tea. So comfortable could stay here for days! My stupid bed bug bites all 50 odd are getting better, generally have a few bites that still itch. Mr D only had 5 & no complaints from him. But today his Achilles tendon was hurting so he better take care of that! We went to a restaurant close by for dinner and Mr D must have offended the waiter after asking how the oysters are cooked. The waiter clearly did not like our Mr D after that, service was slow and food ok, not like last night’s food but better than the vegan lunch. Interesting as many people like Mr D. Even other pilgrims see him and say he looks interesting to talk too. Well, those that know Mr D can definitely say he is a very interesting man! But Mr D isn’t interested in striking up conversations with others.

Don’t think I allowed Mr D to drink too much tonight but he wanted to go and play in the children’s playground returning back from dinner. So there he is swinging away on a kids swing. Let him be. He had a difficult walk after lunch as he had a headache and the Achilles problem so was very quiet and unhappy in the afternoon. So it is good to see him with a smile tonight! Hard long day walk, tomorrow a short and sweet one. The Galicia markers are counting down the remaining kilometres to Santiago, we are down to 82 or something kilometres left. Hard to know as someone has removed the kilometre markers. Arcade is a nice small town, but not about to go exploring it. Have no energy after a long days walk. 😊

The running comedy is when Mr D finds a public toilet which there wasn’t any today, he lets Karen know as she has to use a toilet a lot. And when an ambulance goes pass, Karen says There goes Mr D’s Taxi! 🚕

Mougas to Nigran; 20kms

Had such a good sleep! This room very dark thankfully without outside lights and everything. I even got up packed and was ready before 7.30am! The Albergue owner had given us each a bag with two apples, 2 tiny cupcakes, a coffee sachet and mini milk carton. So I ate the two mini cupcakes so they wouldn’t get squished in my backpack. Unlike Mr D, he had carried a tiny cupcake the day before and it had become a pancake cupcake and was promptly thrown in the bin. Karen was ready to go but was late! She complained of someone farting in a nearby room overnight. 😆

It was pretty dark as we walked off, the only pilgrims out so early. Found an open cafe 1.5kms onwards and there was only a few pilgrims in there. The man behind the counter said it was pretty quiet today, normally lots of pilgrims first thing in the morning. We enjoyed a light breakfast watching the sunrise.

The early morning walk was lovely besides the ocean again before veering up a steep long hill on a rocky woodland path. Wildfires that had occurred recently before our arrival were noted very close to homes here. Many pilgrims appeared and were almost running up the steep hill. No one we recognised. Stopped at a little pilgrim rest stop and had fresh squeezed orange juice. And an apple from my breakfast bag.

There became a maze of cobblestone lanes, walk ways up, down and around gradually descending into the town of Baiona. The Senda Litoral route has a twin alternative route to confuse matters as the official coastal route left us at Caminha. We got caught out on this route and used google maps to correct ourselves onto the correct one. Definitely as on the Camino Frances, there is litter everywhere! Rubbish, used toilet paper, discarded underwear. It is absolutely disgraceful. Pilgrims that leave their shit on the ground no respect for the environment.

So Karen had to urgently go pee pee in someone’s yard and we continued down to the marina and waited for her there. Mondays in Spain is like Tuesdays in Portugal. It was 12.30 & we were looking for a lunch spot. Restaurants were either closed or not opening until 1pm. Cafes were looking like our only option, the only two that is that were open. So feeling agitated we continued down the Camino route sourcing a restaurant out and luckily found one. We were the only ones dining there it seemed. We sat outside watching the people go pass, other pilgrims. Mr D had another lobster while Karen and I had grilled sea bass. We have been recommended to order fish / seafood by the sea and inland – meats. So I was eating lots of fish. And we were well behaved, having one glass of vino for lunch and Mr D had a beer.

Mr D keeps trying to catch a taxi. So after lunch he had suggested again to catch a taxi to our accommodation as he didn’t want to continue walking kilometres after lunch. I feel like it wasn’t far, like 6kms odd. I was like well I’ll walk and you catch a taxi! So we all set off alongside the bay as we have left the ocean behind now and following a long bay in towards Vigo. It was hot actually, felt very warm in the afternoon especially as very little shade. Karen and I are surprised by the lack of people on the sand, sun bathing and going swimming. We could imagine in August that the beaches would be full of people and now, a small handful. Mr D lagged behind at this point. He actually been walking with us most of the way today. We all were tired, but that is everyday to be honest.

Didn’t take too long to reach Ramallosa where we had hoped to stay. Again Mr D wanted to catch a taxi. It was less than 3kms. We settled on bypassing the Camino routes ( both ) & headed directly up to Nigran alongside a busy noisy and smelly road. And it was hot. The alternative Camino route winds its way onto this road and pass our pension accommodation for the last kilometre. We were hot, sweaty and completely stuffed! The reception man spoke very little English and hard to understand. He was also very slow with doing the check ins. Mr D was getting ants in his pants. He did spy a fridge that was ageing steak and beef so that really got his full attention and he started salivating at the prospect of eating aged steak tonight. I grabbed our keys and headed for the room with Karen. Mr D came up moments later completely destroyed. He carried a bottle of red vino and two glasses. He had asked a worker if he could book a table for dinner tonight. The worker laughed at him and said No! We close in half an hour. We not open Monday nights! Gutted. Truly gutted. Our little hotel room is comfortable enough. But we had been spoilt so far with generous apartments and rooms with fridge, coffee machine, full kitchen, washing machine. Here none of that.

After rest in our room, freshening up and a couple of glasses of vino we set out looking for a restaurant. Well it was Monday. And as we quickly discovered, restaurants were either closed or didn’t open until 8pm. And there wasn’t much about close to our accommodation. So we found a small bar that served tapas food but only after 8pm. So we started with drinks, no cocktails could only get beer, wine or baileys as was what Mr D ended up drinking as the red wine was horrible. Tapas was delicious and we couldn’t finish it. In Spain, people allowed to still smoke in outdoor seating areas of restaurants and cafes so we had to put up with the cigarette smoke. It is what you are used to. Poor Karen today started having a problem with her calf muscles, spasms and pain. So she still managed to walk the distance, just went slower. Rested her legs vertically for 2 hours and they seem better so hopefully she has no major problems on tomorrow’s walk into Vigo. There we will have a rest day that we are really looking forward to!

A Guarda to Mougas – 21 kms (28.9.25)

When we crossed over to Spain, we had to forward our clocks one hour. So that threw everything out of whack. Karen didn’t get good sleep and was so tired so not interested in a days walking she really thought about catching a taxi. I had a good sleep. Mr D is pretty much over his mild cold and slept well. But looking outside as we had agreed on the usual 7.30am leaving time, it was pitch black outside at 6.45am! I thought geez, this is wrong, I’m sure Spain must be an hour (or 2) behind Portugal. We packed up and left down the stairs in the dark and not so cold outside around 7.50am as I’m always slow packing up. Karen said we had to go right down the beach and my app said left to rejoin the Camino. Anyway, we went right and did some extra steps and stairs to the left after reaching the water. In fact, 150 meters up found an open cafe so went in for breakfast.

At least this cafe could do a good cuppa tea. We filled up a small breakfast joined by a few other early morning pilgrims, then set off in the early morning light. There was a highway of pilgrim traffic early on! So we let them pass. Some lovely photo opportunities. And the first part walking right alongside the coast with the waves crashing into the rocks, was stunning. Reminded us of the Cape to Cape back at home, minus walking in lots of sand.

Leaving the coastline, we climb straight up a steep zig zag road, join a woodland trail where a young man sits with some xylophone piece and hat to collect coins, but isn’t playing. Then onto a main road, though we walk along a wide yellow coloured dual footpath / cycle lane. Nothing to really excite us for some time. But the Spanish have planted Eucalyptus Trees in the Galicia region. So we have these tall Eucalyptus Trees and the strong smell of home for us.

Once we re-join a lovely woodland path things become more interesting. We pass a lady sitting on a random chair facing the ocean. Just further on is a strange man in the middle of the track. Just standing there doing something but his back is turned to us and he sways as he stands there. Karen thinking is he taking a piss? We pass and he is looking at his phone and doesn’t acknowledge us. Mr D approaches soon after and feels the man is strange as well. So we get into a small town and a little cafe with lots going on. Cyclists are everywhere. Lycra clad bodies are everywhere. Markers and ropes are being set up. Seems like some big event is happening. The cafe only has one toilet for each gender and queues of woman are lined up for the one ladies toilet and no one for the men’s. Typical. So we have another coffee and rest before setting off again. May I add the morning has been cool and cloudy, perfect for walking and I’m feeling so happy about it!

So off we go with Mr D in the lead as normal. There’s some man deciding to take a piss just by the side of the track. So many people around, he don’t care. Then they start, first with hordes of walkers all in the same t-shirts going the opposite direction to us. Then the marathon runners turn up and there are hundreds of them pounding the ground and racing pass us. Geez, made me so tired watching them! We hoot them on, giving them high fives and clapping. Some of them yell out Buen Camino! To us. It was a lot of excitement but glad when the final runners pass us and we veer away from the main road again and into more quiet woodland paths.

We arrive at Oia. A cute little seaside village, walking through the narrow cobblestone laneways. Arrive near the church and there’s a nice looking restaurant opposite so decided to have a lunch time feast. Mr D even has a beer and then glass of vino. For someone that refuses to drink beer normally, he is drinking beer almost daily! The food wasn’t as grand as what we have had but ok. They filled our bellies. There was another event happening at this church, and they kept firing off fire crackers into the sky, made us jump every time they went off with a loud bang! Then there’s a full band playing music and all sorts happening. Mr D reckons it was a funeral and he saw a casket being carried. Then there’s a huge Jesus cutout piece being carried about. And mobs of people. So after all that excitement, we continued the final stretch with Mr D in front again!

So there was still 5 odd kms to go mostly flat. Some horses and cows out and about. A lot of pilgrims all moving in the same direction. So this Sendal Littoral route is fairly popular. But walking by the coast is so enjoyable! The sun came out and it did warm up a little but manageable. We met these 4 ladies from England as we were walking. Bumped into them again at the albergue we are all staying at. They didn’t recognise us so funny! They went on about meeting two ladies from Perth, one wearing rainbow sleeves. We laughed and said that’s us! But anyway, Mr D was not in a walking mood today and had a bee in his bonnet to do some clothes washing. He was getting annoyed, luckily the albergue we reached after 4pm. Yes they have washing machine and dryer! So now Mr D has clean, dry clothes and is a happy man again. 😆

We have our own private rooms upstairs in this albergue. Mr D and my room actually has full kitchen, bathroom, main bedroom and extra 4 bunk beds. We could accommodate a party of people! And the view from our bedroom, of the ocean. Bliss! So we enjoyed drinks and a decent nice dinner in the joining restaurant. Watching the crazy coastline. Waves smashing into rocks. Surfers being crazy enough to be surfing out there. Looked rough as guts. Lots of rocks jutting out of the water. And a lovely sunset. Yesterday we were in great spirits with a short walking day. Today was longer yes but the weather for most part and all the stuff happening made it pretty nice too. My vasculitis improves and doesn’t look so red anymore, not itchy or feeling hot. I’m glad. The bottom of my feet hurt but from the constant walking on hard surfaces. And those cobblestones, they are a killer!

September 25/9/25; 26kms

Well, yet another long day and too hot today, reached 29. Phew! Was exhausted from yesterday and slept like a log. Didn’t hear Mr D coughing at all, and the alarm rudely woke me up. We got a quick breakfast in our lovely apartment. Left around 7.45am and started along the Sendal littoral route out to Esposende before changing to the official coastal route to our final destination Chafé.

Karen’s balls were feeling better today but not her left big toe that created much discomfort and pain throughout the day and involved two stops to readjust her bandages & wool on her foot. Also Karen had to go pee like every 5 minutes and Mr D was getting fed up with the constant ‘OMG! I need to go again! I’m busting to pee!’ So he told her politely to stop saying it out loud and just do it! I was getting the usual hikers rash on my lower legs and this became quite a problem later in the day. Mr D on the other hand just had a mild cold and without any training prior, seem to be walking the distances just fine, no pain, no rashes, no discomfort.

The walk into Esposende was fine, Mr D went ahead and this time stopped at the first cafe. Karen and I did a detour to a cute little pilgrim stop that you could get a stamp at, a toilet (for Karen!) and souvenirs. So got me a few more stuff to squeeze into my already heavy and full backpack. Mr D was complaining it was hot and it was only 9.40am! But yes, I knew today was going to be unbearable with the heat. So when we caught up, we were just happy to continue walking. Though we did stop at a supermarket/cafe for a coffee and Portuguese custard tarts. There, Mr D spoke with a young man pilgrim from Germany called Oscar. Later, Oscar caught up to us and walked a little with us.

We were following the narrow cobblestone laneways and getting glimpses of the ocean. The temperature was rising and getting uncomfortably warm. As Karen and I caught up with Mr. D, he was in a conversation with some pilgrims who were saying, ‘You must go to the bar you have just passed! OMG, it’s amazing! The best bar! You just can’t miss the experience!’ So, they sold it to us. Mr. D, who never backtracks, made an exception today to backtrack 90 metres. The bar was pretty cool, full of so many weird and wonderful things, with pictures of pilgrims on the walls. The older gentleman there didn’t really speak English but was so warm and welcoming to us. We had beers for 1.10 euros each! Then he brought over biscuits, honey, jam, and peanuts for us to enjoy. When Mr. D left before Karen and me, he invited us behind the bar and offered us some white port. Then he offered us red port! It was well worth the detour!

So now feeling very happy, we set off after Mr D. Soon the alcohol wore off and the heat started to wear me down. So was my sore battered feet and hot calves. The hikers rash was getting very angry, feeling itchy. My legs were feeling heavy of lactic acid buildup. They just couldn’t move nimble enough. It was getting to mid afternoon. I desperately wanted to rest. However Mr D was somewhere in front looking for a cafe. Very hard to find food places. There wasn’t anything! We moved into a shady woodland walk. Something different for a change. Though hard to navigate trunk roots, stones and all with tired and sore legs. Crossed the river and then had a steep uphill on cobblestones. Went up forever! By the time I reached the top I must have been beetroot red in the face. There was a cute albergue! Mr D was waiting inside. I poured cold water on my head, cooled down and we had a late simple albergue lunch 3.30pm. As there were no cafes. No restaurants. The owner asked if we wanted drinks. She accepted only alcohol requests and Mr D wanted a coke. She looked at him as if he was mad. We ordered wine. She was happy with us ladies. 😆 Mr D was happy to see a guitar there and played some tunes. Karen was impressed with said albergue thinking they would be terrible so didn’t want to stay in one. This one changed her mind.

So it was 4pm. Pilgrims probably felt sorry for us or quietly laughed at us as we left their cool, peaceful accommodation and returned into the heat to climb more steep hills. More woodland paths. Must have been 5kms but felt double that to Chafé. I was feeling worse and worse. Karen that had nagging foot problems all day was feeling light footed and great. Mr D was ambling along just fine, no cares in the world. We made it to this Bed and Breakfast we had booked. This one has rooms to accommodate several lots of pilgrims so wasn’t just us booked in. But Mr D and I have bedroom one with own private bathroom. Sweet! The first thing I did was throw off socks and shoes. My lower legs covered in a red angry rash. I was suffering so bad I just stayed in the bedroom while Mr D and Karen joined fellow pilgrims downstairs in the garden over a bottle of wine. It was after 5.30pm when we had got it. Incredible long day, longer than yesterday. I felt miserable as I heard them laughing and having fun. I could barely walk around the bedroom.

You have to take vasculitis seriously. So I had a cold shower and put an ice pack on the really red rash parts. I could move around gingerly but wasn’t about to walk around town. And I needed to elevate my legs as long as possible. Put on compression socks and took antihistamine for the itching. I could cry really, tomorrow is another 26km walk. The only relief is the temperature is meant to be cooler around 21 degrees. The heat is not helping my leg rashes at all. Especially walking all day in the heat. Worse case scenario I change into my Hoka sandals to let my skin breathe. Hopefully it will be better in the morning.

Dinner was pretty low key at a cafe across the road basically. Apparently not many options available in town. Two Singapore brothers had the smarts to buy some food and were cooking a feast in the accomodation kitchen. Our food was pretty simple and not exciting at all. I think my pizza was from a box and put in the microwave. Definitely the pizza in Paris was superior. No cocktails available. Dry white wine just had to do. Time to rest and prepare for another early start tomorrow. 🤞

Day Two; Mindelo to Apulia – 26kms

Today was harder than yesterday. Not so much from the soreness of yesterday as that wasn’t so bad after a restful sleep besides when Mr D was having coughing fits at midnight. But today was much hotter, minus the blowing cool breeze we had yesterday. I believe it went up to 28. So too much. But we started early at 7.30am and it was most pleasant then, few pilgrims on the boardwalk, mostly locals going for a morning stroll.

Ambles pulled ahead of us and was meant to find a cafe for breakfast. It looked like nothing would be open until 10am. We followed behind Karen & I, into Vila De Conde as things went pear shaped. I didn’t realise I had Camino Ninja on the Portuguese Senda Litoral route and Ambles had it on the official Coastal route. So we bewildered followed markers into the town not seeing where Ambles had gone. But we were in need of a toilet and coffee. Found the first open cafe that actually was a secret! One board out on the street, walk into a hallway full of artwork and follow your nose down the hallway, down some stairs and emerge into a cute little hidden cafe with a lovely garden out the back. Best thing was not many pilgrims had discovered it. So we enjoyed pistachio croissants with chai latte. Wonderful! Ambles missed out.

We lost the Camino markers after coming back out. Had I the coastal app open would have been fine. We made our way to the coastal path again and close to midday we finally caught up with Ambles on the town outskirts at a cafe so had a refreshing juice drink and small bite to eat. After this it got hot, no cover at all, trudging along covering distance before lunch. Karen remarked to one lady walking the other way she was going the wrong way. Turns out there is an another route following the blue arrows from Santiago to Fatima. There you go!

At 2pm there about, after passing the first OPEN public toilets, we arrived in the town before Apulia and Mr D found an authentic Portuguese restaurant where the locals were dining. I must admit I was affected by the heat, my feet boiling in the shoes. Had some grilled sea bass while Mr D and Karen had Sardines. After it seemed all the locals had gone, the owners locked the front door and were enjoying their late lunch out the back. We hobbled out the back door with another 7.2kms to go. It was torture!

This is where I realised I was following a different map to Mr D. Unfortunately we ended up on his map and took the long way around to our accommodation. An extra 2km and we had to walk on cobblestone streets where the locals sped by us. My feet were killing me. We found the area but took another 20 minutes to find this apartment we had booked. This one we had to ourselves as long as we made it up the 3 flights of stairs! Indeed we could stay here for a few days recovering!

It was already 6pm, but we dragged our limbs out to the local bar for drinks and tapas food. Tomorrow is hot again and another long walk. See how we go. Lessons learned; there’s two routes I can follow when Mr D says I’m following the red line! And I am following a different red line, it all makes sense! Karen’s balls weren’t hurting so much today….. until the last cobblestone part 😂 Today didn’t have water fountains like yesterday. But still lots of boardwalks and flat sections. Full of Vino, cocktails and Baileys. Time for shuteye 😴