Nigran to Vigo – 21.4kms (30/9/25)

Had a great sleep I did. Never have issues usually with sleeping. We were ready to go before 7.30am. The Pension didn’t open breakfast until 8.30am which is far too late for us hikers! Just a few minutes down the road we see a cafe open for breakfast and I’m like all for a cuppa tea and light breakfast as we had nothing in the rooms. Some of us couldn’t fill their water bottles up in the bathroom sink. That’s how bad it was! But Mr D was like No, too early for breakfast! I say we continue walking down to the Litoral route and there will be something open. And I was like, probably not, everything will be closed! But he insisted. And you can gather the outcome of said decision.

So we walked on in the dark and watched a beautiful sunrise over the water. Onwards we continued pass closed cafes and restaurants. Up steep laneways, over beach sand, pass a big pilgrim group all sitting on the footpath. Pass more closed restaurants. Mr D and Karen quickly regretted leaving their little cupcakes in the hotel room. All we had was water and Karen’s bottle was running low as she couldn’t get it under the sink tap properly to fill it. So I was mad at Mr D and decided in future I will stop and he can walk all morning without a break! By 10.30am after walking 10.5kms we came to one little cafe open. Had double our hot drinks and all the lady had was toast with butter, jam and some slices of ham.

Feeling alive again, we pressed on besides the waters edge and right into a nudist beach! Well the track passes overhead looking straight down to the water and all the older men and women with no kit on. Mr D was cringing. Some women need to keep their bras on! He exclaimed. And the nudity wasn’t just isolated there, there was more further along. The people in this area clearly were very comfortable in their skin and bearing all. Karen came to a lovely big cross with rocks people had put there and was about to visit it but close by was a woman walking around with her big hooters out so Karen decided to walk on. 😆

We reached a more populated spot that had ice cream places and little waterside cafes. Just on the outskirts of Vigo. Found one beach bar Karen decided looked good for a spot and a drink so we put our backpacks down and the sit down. The waitress comes out and we ask for drinks. The lady says no drinks being served. But I beg to differ! I pointed at other ladies on another table with their coffees and what nots going, Hang on! You have served them drinks! Mr D says You have Coke? And the lady suddenly beams and says Cocoa Cola? Yes! So we order two cokes and sparkling water. OMG. I’m sure she didn’t want smelly pilgrims like us there.

Heading off again Karen decided she was pretty tired and would be shuffling her feet. Mr D decided to finally walk with me as I had hardly seen him all day he was always somewhere in the far distance. It was warm, we plodded onwards, thinking stop around 2pm for lunch somewhere nice. Found a spot open and serving food facing a small water way. And there was another lady popping up wading through the water with her hooters for all to see. Lunch was nice but, Karen might have offended a couple of locals sitting next to us with her loud voice, otherwise we enjoyed a couple of alcohol drinks each including Mr D that decided if you can’t beat them, join them! And he is really digging the beers over red wine.

So we were pretty keen to get to our accommodation but had another hour and half walking through hot streets, noisy cars going pass and boatyards. Once we turned into our area we entered the beautiful part of Vigo, gorgeous laneways, shops, tapas bars, big malls. Mr D describes it as the poor suburb of Paris. We stay in a very comfortable apartment with full kitchen, seating room, bathroom and washing machine. Tiny balconies to peer out of. But feels warm and seems to have no temperature air conditioning control. We freshen up and to our dismay, are covered in bed bug bites! Only Mr D and I. Bloody bastard the Camino curse has struck again. We can only assume we have picked them up from our last accommodation in Nigran.

We are all feeling very tired. Went out to the farmacia then to the supermercado followed by cocktails at a bar. Then a small tapas bar, had some light tapas bites but feeling quite full and just eating way too much. Also trying to ignore the itchy multiple bites but unsuccessfully. Tomorrow we have one rest day where we don’t have to wake up early, pack and walk on.

On a side note rant with WordPress, if you are looking at it for a blogging platform, forget it. It has caused much grievance. Not only has it published day 4 & 5 but not really, now it is deciding most of my photos are not the correct size when they were up to now. Hence I can’t upload many to show. Anyway, if you want to read day 4 and 5 (they are good!) then you can find the links on my Facebook page Ambling Rose. Over and out.