A Guarda to Mougas – 21 kms (28.9.25)

When we crossed over to Spain, we had to forward our clocks one hour. So that threw everything out of whack. Karen didn’t get good sleep and was so tired so not interested in a days walking she really thought about catching a taxi. I had a good sleep. Mr D is pretty much over his mild cold and slept well. But looking outside as we had agreed on the usual 7.30am leaving time, it was pitch black outside at 6.45am! I thought geez, this is wrong, I’m sure Spain must be an hour (or 2) behind Portugal. We packed up and left down the stairs in the dark and not so cold outside around 7.50am as I’m always slow packing up. Karen said we had to go right down the beach and my app said left to rejoin the Camino. Anyway, we went right and did some extra steps and stairs to the left after reaching the water. In fact, 150 meters up found an open cafe so went in for breakfast.

At least this cafe could do a good cuppa tea. We filled up a small breakfast joined by a few other early morning pilgrims, then set off in the early morning light. There was a highway of pilgrim traffic early on! So we let them pass. Some lovely photo opportunities. And the first part walking right alongside the coast with the waves crashing into the rocks, was stunning. Reminded us of the Cape to Cape back at home, minus walking in lots of sand.

Leaving the coastline, we climb straight up a steep zig zag road, join a woodland trail where a young man sits with some xylophone piece and hat to collect coins, but isn’t playing. Then onto a main road, though we walk along a wide yellow coloured dual footpath / cycle lane. Nothing to really excite us for some time. But the Spanish have planted Eucalyptus Trees in the Galicia region. So we have these tall Eucalyptus Trees and the strong smell of home for us.

Once we re-join a lovely woodland path things become more interesting. We pass a lady sitting on a random chair facing the ocean. Just further on is a strange man in the middle of the track. Just standing there doing something but his back is turned to us and he sways as he stands there. Karen thinking is he taking a piss? We pass and he is looking at his phone and doesn’t acknowledge us. Mr D approaches soon after and feels the man is strange as well. So we get into a small town and a little cafe with lots going on. Cyclists are everywhere. Lycra clad bodies are everywhere. Markers and ropes are being set up. Seems like some big event is happening. The cafe only has one toilet for each gender and queues of woman are lined up for the one ladies toilet and no one for the men’s. Typical. So we have another coffee and rest before setting off again. May I add the morning has been cool and cloudy, perfect for walking and I’m feeling so happy about it!

So off we go with Mr D in the lead as normal. There’s some man deciding to take a piss just by the side of the track. So many people around, he don’t care. Then they start, first with hordes of walkers all in the same t-shirts going the opposite direction to us. Then the marathon runners turn up and there are hundreds of them pounding the ground and racing pass us. Geez, made me so tired watching them! We hoot them on, giving them high fives and clapping. Some of them yell out Buen Camino! To us. It was a lot of excitement but glad when the final runners pass us and we veer away from the main road again and into more quiet woodland paths.

We arrive at Oia. A cute little seaside village, walking through the narrow cobblestone laneways. Arrive near the church and there’s a nice looking restaurant opposite so decided to have a lunch time feast. Mr D even has a beer and then glass of vino. For someone that refuses to drink beer normally, he is drinking beer almost daily! The food wasn’t as grand as what we have had but ok. They filled our bellies. There was another event happening at this church, and they kept firing off fire crackers into the sky, made us jump every time they went off with a loud bang! Then there’s a full band playing music and all sorts happening. Mr D reckons it was a funeral and he saw a casket being carried. Then there’s a huge Jesus cutout piece being carried about. And mobs of people. So after all that excitement, we continued the final stretch with Mr D in front again!

So there was still 5 odd kms to go mostly flat. Some horses and cows out and about. A lot of pilgrims all moving in the same direction. So this Sendal Littoral route is fairly popular. But walking by the coast is so enjoyable! The sun came out and it did warm up a little but manageable. We met these 4 ladies from England as we were walking. Bumped into them again at the albergue we are all staying at. They didn’t recognise us so funny! They went on about meeting two ladies from Perth, one wearing rainbow sleeves. We laughed and said that’s us! But anyway, Mr D was not in a walking mood today and had a bee in his bonnet to do some clothes washing. He was getting annoyed, luckily the albergue we reached after 4pm. Yes they have washing machine and dryer! So now Mr D has clean, dry clothes and is a happy man again. 😆

We have our own private rooms upstairs in this albergue. Mr D and my room actually has full kitchen, bathroom, main bedroom and extra 4 bunk beds. We could accommodate a party of people! And the view from our bedroom, of the ocean. Bliss! So we enjoyed drinks and a decent nice dinner in the joining restaurant. Watching the crazy coastline. Waves smashing into rocks. Surfers being crazy enough to be surfing out there. Looked rough as guts. Lots of rocks jutting out of the water. And a lovely sunset. Yesterday we were in great spirits with a short walking day. Today was longer yes but the weather for most part and all the stuff happening made it pretty nice too. My vasculitis improves and doesn’t look so red anymore, not itchy or feeling hot. I’m glad. The bottom of my feet hurt but from the constant walking on hard surfaces. And those cobblestones, they are a killer!